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The Face of Domenico Clerico
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A Note from Sergio
As charming,
inviting and sweet as Domenico Clerico is, he’s also loud, confident and always
in your face--ready to strike at a moment’s notice. I’ve met him many times, and
even when he was more reserved, it felt as if there was an underlying force
ready to show itself at any second. Sometimes I’d even push his buttons waiting
in anticipation of what might happen next, tapping at a tightly-wound coil. I
wasn't sure if I'd like the outcome, but the excitement of the wait and
wonderment was worth the risk.
I
may venture to say that Domenico even has somewhat of an ego--and rightly so.
He's a Piemontese producer working with one of the world's most noble grapes:
Nebbiolo. More importantly, Domenico knows what to do with this variety,
crafting outstanding Barolo. He’s even pushed the limits-and some buttons-of
traditional Barolo lovers such as myself.
He
started in the conventional sense: aging Barolo in Slavonian oak. By the time
he debuted his Barolo Pajanà in 1990, things changed; the wine was now aged in
barrique. Throughout the years, he experimented with old and new barrique and tested
different maceration periods, earning him the label of modernist. But Domenico
is so much more. His focus is always to express each single-vineyard wine's
individuality and design noticeably beautiful wines. Owning property in
four of the greatest cru--Ginestra, Bussia, Pajanà and
Mosconi--in Montforte d’Alba doesn’t hurt either.
It's
a pleasure to drink Domenico's wine from the very heart of Barolo's Monforte
d'Alba. Today’s selection of Clerico classics--Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra,
Barolo Pajanà, Dolcetto Langhe Visadi, Arte Langhe and Barbera d'Alba
Trevigne--is especially exciting. If they were apples, they haven't fallen far
from the tree.
My Best,
Domenico Clerico
Dolcetto Langhe Visadi 2008, 750ml, $18.81
Overall,
vines in Piemonte were plentiful in 2008, so careful vineyard management was
necessary to avoid any rot or other disease from the humidity. Heavy rains eventually
transitioned into months of dry weather during harvest, leaving the grapes in
perfect form. Made of 100 percent Dolcetto grown on vines planted more than 50
years ago, Clerico’s Langhe Visadi cru is macerated for four to five days; the
wine then ages in barrique for six to eight months before revealing a dark,
purple-red color with layered perfumes of black fruits and toast.
Domenico Clerico
Arte Langhe 2006, 750ml, $44.27
A
true work of “Arte,” this wine is the only one in Clerico’s collection that is
aged exclusively in 100 percent new barrique. Crafted with 90 percent Nebbiolo
from the Ginestra, Pajanà, Bussia, Mosconi and Manzoni vineyards and 10 percent
Barbera, the blend is aged for 16 to 18 months. Despite a mix of torrential
downpours and torrid temperatures in the beginning of the season, the 2006
season balanced out in the end, leaving a full-bodied, complex wine with hints
of plums and licorice, velvety tannins and a long, inviting finish.
Domenico Clerico
Barbera d'Alba Trevigne 2006, 750ml, $32.50
First
released in 1979, Clerico’s single cru Barbera is matured in 70-percent new
barrique for 12 to 16 months. Intense raspberry and currant on the nose lead
into a rich, persistent palate. This Barbera complements cured meats and pasta
dishes well.
Domenico Clerico
Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2005, 750ml, $97.00
Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2006, 750ml, $90.00**
Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2006, 1500ml, $232.40**
Named
after one of the two siblings-Mentin and Fiore-who owned the vineyard prior to
Domenico Clerico, and the “Ciabot” house that once rested on the land, this
wine is macerated in temperature-controlled steel for 12 to 14 days and then
aged in 90 percent new barrique for 22 to 24 months before resting in bottle
for six to eight more months prior to release. From two solid Piemonte
vintages, this Barolo is explosive with layer upon layer of thick, juicy fruits
and tannins that leave a clean finish. The wine will mature through 2030 and
evolve for a longer time in the larger format bottle.
Domenico Clerico
Barolo Pajanà 2004, 750ml, $105.00
Barolo Pajanà 2005, 750ml, $97.00
Barolo Pajanà 2006, 750ml, $90.00**
The
first of Clerico’s Barolo to see barrique, Pajanà may be less perfumed on the nose than the Ciabot Mentin Ginestra,
but it’s round and lush on the palate. The wine is aged for 22 to 24 months and
is an intense ruby red, layered in fruit and spice. All three vintages were
consistently strong, producing wines with enough backbone to age for many
years.
**Indicates pre-arrival |
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