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Southern Favorites
Of Campania and Sicilia
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"Wine is not art, wine is handicraft. This means that the design of a wine implies the ability to duplicate the product despite the climate conditions or a single harvest." --Bruno De Conciliis
Some of the best winemakers prefer to keep things challenging. Two producers, one in Campania and the other in Sicilia, stand behind this concept to reveal the best characteristics of indigenous varieties in their wine. Bruno De Conciliis employs ancient Campanian varieties like Greco while Giusto Occhipinti of COS, in Sicilia, believes that native Nero d'Avola can stand on its own, yet he challenges it by blending.
Both producers strive to extract the most out of each variety. De Conciliis wants to enhance the minerals, acidity and freshness of the Greco. To attain this in his Greco di Tufo Oro, the wine ferments in stainless steel then undergoes bâttonage, the process of stirring on its lees, for two months to create a richer mouthfeel. The wine then returns to steel for an additional seven months of aging before resting in bottle for three months until release.
Giusto Occhipinti of COS trusts in the power of Nero d'Avola. He also believes that the variety, when blended, should only be coupled with the best. For his Pithos, the Sicilian variety Frappato is his choice. To extract the most expression from the variety, he first ferments in terracotta amphorae (also known as Pithos), large clay pots buried in the ground--an ancient vinification method also used by Friuli's famed Josko Gravner for his whites.
We're pleased to offer you De Conciliis' Greco di Tufo and the COS Pithos, both great discoveries from the south of "the boot" from the 2008 vintage.
De Conciliis Greco di Tufo Oro 2008, 750ml, $24.75
You can tell by its name that Greco ("Greek") originated in Greece. An import to southern Italy more than 2,500 years ago, the Greco grape is often compared to Viognier because of its subtle fruit and herbaceous aromatics. The sun-filled mountains on the De Conciliis estate produce optimally-ripened fruit. The most recent Greco di Tufo on the market, this full-bodied, dry white has pronounced minerals and acidity with notes of almond, peach and pear on the palate.
COS Pithos 2008, 750ml, $49.80
This heavier-bodied Nero d'Avola is blended with 40 percent Frappato for good acidity and perfume. "This wine has an undeniable Sicilian identity," said IWM's Sergio Esposito after a recent tasting. "It's seductive, with an allure of African spice and hints of salt, heat and a delicate sweetness adorning a charismatically noble and strong feminine character." Aged for 12 months, this wine has some longevity and can last at least a decade. |
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