|
|
|
 |
|
|
Flourishing in Trentino and Toscana
The Other Side of Toscana
|
A Note from Sergio
There are a handful of Italian winemakers who know how to grow international varietals, all while staying true to their land. Planted on Italian soil by Napoleon's army, as well as Florentine merchants, Italians adopted them and made the varieties their own. Today, in Toscana, they are as much a part of the landscape as Sangiovese or Malvasia in many areas.
Toscana was always complimentary to these varieties. Its rolling hills and cooling Mediterranean breezes were perfect for growing. The swarms of English on holiday instantly recognized and sought them out. Even Toscana cuisine-thick slices of bruschetta lightly rubbed with garlic and topped with sweating pig's fat called lardo, vegetable and stale bread ribollita, pencil-thick pici pasta dressed in a boar ragu and the classic bistecca Fiorentina-fit not only the lush and savory Sangiovese but also the more tannic Cabernet Sauvignon, peppery Cabernet Franc or dark-fruited Merlot.
Two producers, who always put their land-and Sangiovese--first decided to experiment with some of these varieties-one even dared to produce a world--class white in an area whose whites are little wines meant to be drunk in their youth.
Querciabella perfected their Chianti Classico, respecting the quality of the Sangiovese and the typicity of the region's gentle variety, but Chardonnay was nothing new to founder Giuseppe Castiglioni. The winemaker was rumored to have the largest collection of Louis Roederer Cristal in Italy. When he launched Batàr in 1988, it was a blend of Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco, but soon after he took a more comforting approach and, in 1992, changed the blend to equal parts of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco. Today, this wine's age-worthiness and complexity has lifted it to the front of the pack of Tuscan whites.
Nearby, Castello dei Rampolla simultaneously perfected their Chianti Classico before venturing to make an internationally, appealing wine. Alceo di Napoli was in love with the Super-Tuscan classic Sassicaia, thus in 1996, he was inspired to create Vigna d'Alceo (one of two Super Tuscans the estate produces), a Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot blockbuster that gives instant satisfaction while delivering a unique and harmonious experience. Today, the intense Cabernet-blend retains its cult status.
When done passionately, and with the utmost attention to quality, these grapes take on an entirely new vibrancy in Italian soil-and taste even better.
Just see for yourself. Have a sip.
My Best,
 Querciabella
Batàr 2007, 750ml, $100.00**
Like a white Burgundy, Batàr may be tight in its youth but will mellow out as time goes on. Wait three to four years after harvest to explore this wine. A 50-50 blend of Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay, each variety is aged in a mix of 50 percent new and 50 percent old French oak for nine to 12 months before blending in stainless steel. The wine is bottled shortly after, where it rests for six months before release. Full of lively acidity and sliced pears on the palate, this wine is expected to mature from 2011 through 2019.
|
 Castello dei Rampolla
Vigna d'Alceo 2004, 750ml, $199.00**
First premiered in 1996, the fruit for this Bordeaux blend is hand-picked and having seen no chemical treatment. A biodynamic grower, harvest at Rampolla also follows the lunar calendar. A 85-15-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this wine is fermented and aged—one year—in barrique. A deep nose of black fruits and plums combines with round tannins and a lengthy finish on the palate.
|
** Indicates pre-arrival |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
