A Note from Sergio in Montalcino
"That first impression led me to think it might just be the best wine I ever smelled."
--Sergio Esposito on Soldera's Brunello Riserva 2004
New York City has been my home for the last 20 years, but since early last week, Italy has become my new home. I expect my life will be very different, and hopefully, last night is an indication of how it will change. As I would customarily do in the States, I called a friend and asked if he wanted to have dinner after a long day's work. The friend was Gianfranco Soldera, and the work was his final day of harvest.
When I arrived at the winery, I was expecting chaos and disorder. Harvest is crunch time; a race to crush grapes immediately, start fermentation without too much delay and pray incessantly that it all goes well. Between all these things, a huge mess often results; wineries can end up looking like a kitchen where a messy cook made use of every pot, splashed sauces on the walls and drenched the floor with grease.
However, I found no sign of any work. I sat at Gianfranco's table and caught up for an hour or so. I finally asked, "Why did you postpone picking?" Gianfranco smirked and informed me they had harvested indeed, having just finished a few hours earlier. Much to my disbelief, Gianfranco walked me through the spotlessly clean winery smelling no different than it would in January when barely, if any, work is being done. Then, we stopped in front of a huge, wooden bin of fermenting grapes. He pointed and said, "It's all in there." We climbed to the top and peered through the open hole. I saw a heap of crushed orbs, stripped of their stems and leaves. A beautiful mass of skins, the rich color of amarena, or sour cherry, lightly bubbled as the fermentation started to evolve. It looked as edible and delightful as any bunch of grapes I've ever seen. I asked Gianfranco how it could be that there were no squashed grapes on the floor, bees swarming in for a feast, hoses running from tanks and leaking wine onto the floor, and no expected smell of newly crushed and rotting grapes. "Patience," he said. "One needs patience and calm when working with nature. You cannot make great wine unless you treat every grape as if it were precious. So here, we don't mistreat even one."
 The 2010 vintage is already being compared to two other great vintages: 1999 and 2004. Appropriately, perhaps, it was a bottle of 2004 that Gianfranco pulled out as we headed to dinner. Although Gianfranco had been on his feet since 5 a.m., in complete Italian fashion, he insisted we drive forty-five minutes to his favorite restaurant, Locanda Il Silene, a charmingly restored farmhouse with a proper dining room.
As we sat at our overly rotund table dressed with heavy linen, the waiter grabbed the bottle and preceded to avvinare, or rinse, the glass with wine, and then sat the goblet in front of me with a sheer film of wine coating the interior. While the waiter prepared the decanter, I put the glass to my nose and instantly froze in delight. When I pass, I have a few visions of where I might end up. One includes the color white, a vibrant green forest and soft earth covered with rose petals and violets. I was still with delight when the wine's perfume smelled as I had imagined heaven might.
That first impression led me to think it might just be the best wine I ever smelled. When the wine was poured and I put it in my mouth, that impression was grandly reinforced. The liquid was oily, rich, broad-shouldered, sweet, perfectly tannic, juicy and long with una bevibilità incredibile, an incredible drink-ability. It's not just that you want to drink it; it compels you! Though the wine shows many evident dimensions right now, the primary focus is on two: elegance and femininity dancing with powerful girth. This duality makes the wine exceptional.
As Chef Roberto Rossi pleased us with a magnificent battuto di vitello, delicate ravioli of ricotta and herbaceous field greens topped with slivers of Tuscan white truffle, and an outstanding pigeon cooked three ways, one more impressive than the other, I asked Gianfranco, "Why is this wine so good?" Gianfranco replied without hesitation, "This vintage presented an opportunity for alcohol and power, but they weren't alone. It also gave plenty of acidity and polyphenols, which lend perfume. Nature found equilibrium. But, you have to understand how to take those gifts and turn them into wine."
This week I couldn't be prouder than to offer you the Casse Base 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, along with other great wines from this truly gifted winemaker. For the 2004, as true with all Soldera wines, try, as I did, to have as little wine as possible in the glass. And, try, just try, not to drink a few bottles, so you or your loved ones can enjoy them throughout your lives. That, in fact, I dare you!
My Best,
 Case Basse di Soldera
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004, 750ml, $349.00
Soldera's Riserva only comes around once in a good vintage-the last being 1988. Vinified the same since its first harvest in 1975, this Brunello ages in large, Slavonian oak for five years, then rests an additional six to 12 months in bottle before release, leaving behind a thick, dense wine layered in hints of smoke, blackberries and raspberries and bitter chocolate. This wine will live for decades.
Also Available:
Case Basse di Soldera
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2000, 750ml, $355.00
Brunello di Montalcino 1999, 750ml, $325.00
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