A Note from Sergio
Scavino Rocche dell'Annunziata, Aldo Conterno Cicala, Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto: these wines represent some of the greatest expressions of the Nebbiolo. The advent of single-vineyard bottlings, launched by the likes of Beppe Colla of Prunotto and the Ceretto brothers over thirty years ago, have had a profound impact on the Barolo landscape. There is much to discover within each commune and within each vineyard on the soils of the Langhe hills. However, the Holy Grail of Barolo is not a single-vineyard wine labeled Brunate, Cannubi, or Rocche dell'Annunziata. The divine juice is rather a cuvee from the Mascarello estate's single bottling of Barolo.
The grapes for this blend are sourced from just five hectares planted in the historic and prestigious Barolo vineyards of Cannubi, Ruè, San Lorenzo, and Rocche from La Morra which allows for just 1,200 cases, of which only a handful make it to the States. Here, three great protectors of Barolo tradition (Giulio, Bartolo, and Maria Teresa Mascarello) have never bowed to the French custom of cru or single-vineyard bottlings, let alone the use of barriques. While Giulio moved away from the negociant model and use of demijohns (the standard for its time), little has changed since this estate was born in 1918. The practice of assembling ripe fruit from low yields in different vineyards to create a single estate Barolo is law and ensures wines of balance and harmony. Under this Mascarello philosophy Barolo is a wine of patience and there are no short cuts.
Barolo is not the wine of instant gratification that changing palates are demanding. "No Barrique, No Berlusconi" became Bartolo's anthem. This man of unyielding conviction, who inherited his father's passion for both the grape and politics, passed away in March, 2005. However, like his father, he instilled these same values and techniques in the next generation, his daughter Maria Teresa, who now carries on the artisan's craft and represents the future of Barolo's Old School. She has been producing the wine under the watchful eye of the master for over a decade. The door is still open at Via Roma 15, and the tradition is very much alive.
Today I'm delighted to offer you two new releases of Mascarello Barolo, the 2006 Barolo and the 2005 Barolo Magnum, as well as the two new vintages of the wines that Barolo makers customarily craft to drink as their Barolos mature, the 2008 Barbera and the 2009 Dolcetto. All of these wines exemplify the tradition, the mastery, the thoughtfulness and the beauty of Mascarello, but the Barolos especially are things of uncompromising glory. Buy one, let it sit quietly in your cellar, be patient, and then on some special evening, uncork it and prepare to be amazed.
My Best,
P.S. You can now follow me on Twitter: @iwmse.
Featured Wines
Bartolo Mascarello
Barolo 2006, 750ml, $91.15**
If Barolo is the "king of wine and the wine of kings," Bartolo Mascarello's 2006 offering is an aristocrat indeed. Refined, elegant, fragrant, restrained, harmonious and traditional are words that could describe some glorious Italian Marchese, but they all also apply to this heady, garnet wine. Silky, debonair, and balanced, the 2006 Barolo is the result of a long, hot summer, and it shows bunches of dark red fruit supported by an ethereal nose. However exquisite, this wine is still quite young. Patiently wait until 2016-31 for drinking.
Bartolo Mascarello
Barolo 2005, 750ml, $91.00
Barolo 2005, 1500ml, $244.93
A magical Magnum, this 2005 Barolo holds a bewitching mélange of raspberries, chocolate, spices, aniseed, and crushed roses. Rarely has there been a more forthrightly romantic wine than this Mascarello Barolo whose clean lines, purity, and translucence belie its staggering sensuousness. One sip, and you'll fall in love-but wait until it's mature. Drinking from magnum starting in 2020. Also, if you haven’t invested in the 2005 750mls or if you’re looking to tuck away some more, here’s your chance.
Bartolo Mascarello
Barbera 2008, 750ml, $38.96**
While Barolo is akin to royalty, Barbera is the wine of the people. Cultivated alongside the fussy Nebbiolo, Barbera ripens early and produces a fun, cheerfully acidic and food-friendly wine. When Mascarello makes your Barbera, you know you're getting a bottle of Barbera mastery. Expect loads of bright red fruits, fresh floral aromatics, and a zing of acidity. Drinking now, but you can also cellar until 2012.
Bartolo Mascarello
Dolcetto 2009, 750ml, $26.44
The "little sweet one" is the yang to Barbera's yin. Both are happy growing, fast-ripening, quick drinking, everyday beauties, but where Barbera sings with acidity, Dolcetto is low in acid and high in tannins. Bartolo Mascarello's Dolcetto shows fat bunches of dark fruits, and while edging on jamminess, Mascarello's masterly touch restrains the grape to create an artful, spicy, seductive wine. |
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** Indicates pre-arrival. Wines available Mid-November. |
