Every Italian wine cognoscente knows that Sassicaia became the very first Super Tuscan in 1968. Many, however, don't know--or have forgotten--that in Bolgheri the second was Grattamacco. The two wines complement one another, even beyond their birth order. Both of these Bolgheri wines are outliers. Bolgheri's set up a lot like Napa; Napa's vineyards line the main artery of Highway 29 that stretches between the towns of Calistoga and Napa, and Bolgheri too is one main road lined with vineyards. But neither Sassicaia's Tenuta San Guido or Grattamacco are on that main road.
In 1977, Piermario Meletti Cavallari quit his managerial job at 3M. He'd been a wine drinker until then, but after becoming friends and drinking buddy with the noted intellectual, writer and wine critic Luigi Veronelli, Piermario decided to change his life to conform to his passions. He wanted more than to just drink wine; he wanted to make a drinkable wine, a wine to be consumed, and a wine to be enjoyed. He left Bergamo and journeyed to Bolgheri.
He drove off that main road and onto a winding road through Bolgheri. A sinuous road, it turns, twists, dips and rises. He bumped along on that road, over hills, up, up, up and over the town of Bolgheri. There, on the other side, he saw where his vineyard would go. He knew it when he saw it, and he said, "This is my land." A week later he was signing the deed for what would become Grattamacco, and shortly thereafter, he brought on consulting enologist Maurizio Castelli, who to this day helps to shape the estate's wines even though Piermario recently sold the vineyards for a quieter life. In '82, Grattamacco debuted, the second super wine from that part of Tuscany.
About that time, Bolgheri exploded. Antinori came, and so did many other producers, some of which make really good wine, though a lot of the wine tends to be very international in style. These wines are often big, and they cater to a popular taste. Both Sassicaia and Grattamacco, however, don't swing that way. These wines cater to elegance and grace, more than they do power and girth. On Tuesday, I had lunch with Piermario and his wife, who cooked a savory tort of leeks followed by a soft-as-butter braised veal shank. Sitting in their home, eating their food, and drinking their wine, I was reminded of how much they made Bolgheri--and Super Tuscans--what they are today. No new kid on the block, that Grattamacco. It's a founding father.
This week, I'm delighted to offer you the newly released '07 Grattamacco. The growing season of '07 was hot and dry, and it made for some serious grapes. It was, in short, a really good year. And at the higher altitude of the Grattamacco vineyards, it's maybe even a spectacular vintage. The '07 Grattamacco is a fine reminder of what an original Super Tuscan tastes like. Enjoy one and toast to the pioneer spirit. Long live the outliers, for they change the way we live, eat and drink.
My Best,
P.S. You can now follow me on Twitter: @Italian_Wine_SE.
Featured Wines
Grattamacco
Bolgheri Superiore 2007, 750ml, $89.00**
Bolgheri Superiore 2007, 1500ml, $199.00**
The difficult truth first: this wine could drink now, but it's better left to sit. Next, the easy part: when you do open it, you'll be rewarded with an elegant gentleman of a wine. Harmonious, balanced, and with structure to last for another decade, the '07 Bolgheri Superiore retains its trademark opulence. Rich, dark plums and red cherries rest on a foundation of cedar, herbs, coffee beans and, eventually, a touch of new leather. It's a bespoke suit of a wine, one where the tailor's hands have fit the lush fabric into a classic profile. Drinking 2011-2027.
Everyday Wines Under $50
Ca'Marcanda (Gaja)
Promis 2008, 750ml, $47.05**
The '08 Promis, all juicy red plums and blackberries, might be the epitome of a yummy wine. But given that it's a Super Tuscan from the Maremma estate of Barolo master Angelo Gaja, that's hardly surprising. Red and black fruit mingle with oregano and mint in this balanced, fresh, fun and, well, yummy wine. The epitome of Gaja "value," it's drinking now.
Frecciarossa
Pinot Nero Sillery 2008, 750ml, $23.65
Made of 100% Pinot Nero, or Pinot Noir, this straw-yellow, subtly juicy wine exhibits intense white peach and apricot, a delicate freshness and a summer afternoon crispness. Drinking now. And, yes, it's a white wine made from a black grape.
**Indicates pre-arrival. |
