A Note from Sergio
Last week I was lucky enough to cruise the Caribbean on Oceania's newest cruise ship, Marina. I was invited by my two friends Frank del Rio and Bob Binder, the heart and the soul of the boat. My two friends invited me to give my opinion on the ship's world-class culinary program led by Chef Jacques Pepin, and while I secretly dreaded the idea of a cruise, I said yes because my friends asked me. I'm just not much given to a cruise-it always seemed to me like being locked up on a moving piece of metal. However, unexpected things happen when you're confined to a space, even one as large and luxurious as the Marina: you connect with people you wouldn't otherwise. I met a lot of wonderful people (and ate a lot of wonderful food), but one moment stands out among the many.
While sitting next to this beautiful pool overlooking the Caribbean, I was privy to overhearing the conversation of the people next to me, an old, wise-looking, distinguished Columbian gentleman with impeccable manners, and his young, rather callow, nephew. The nephew was going on about all the great things in his life--his school, his beautiful girlfriend, his accomplishments, and his plans for his unparalleled future.
The uncle turns to his nephew and says, "You must promise me that in your life, you will never, ever do something."
"What?" his nephew asked.
The uncle repeated, "You must promise me; you must stay away from this thing."
The kid's face blushed. It was clear that he was thinking about the fake IDs sitting in his pocket.
The uncle continued, "If you don't stay away from this, it'll ruin all your dreams. It'll ruin your family. It'll ruin your work. It'll ruin your plans for the future. It'll ruin your everything."
The nephew looked at him, clearly petrified.
"Promise me," the refined gentleman said. "There are places you must promise me you'll never go."
"Yes," the nephew said, "I promise."
The uncle nodded and looked his nephew in the eye. "Stay away from junk food. Fast food will kill you."
I get where the Columbian gentleman is coming from, especially since I've made the move from New York City to Italy. The food people eat here is real. You know what's in it. You know how it's made. And you understand the value of that knowledge. It's intrinsic to the culture, and eating otherwise is more than anathema: it's sacrilege. And it's something that the Marina, for all it being a big, beautiful piece of metal, understands too. It's not the majesty of the ship, the luxury of its appointments, or even the beauty of the food and the wine that make a cruise pleasurable. It's the people and the serendipitous company you keep.
This week, in honor of that wise old man and his nephew's promise, I'm proud to offer you a selection of natural wines, wines that are the very antithesis of junk food, wines that but for nature would be nothing. Open one with someone whose company you wouldn't ordinarily keep and toast to all things natural, simple, and extraordinary.
My Best,
P.S. You can now follow me on Twitter: @Italian_Wine_SE.
Featured Wines
Radikon
Merlot 2000, 1000ml, $199.00
You could play twenty questions with this mysterious, delicious Merlot. Animal, vegetable, and mineral best describe this wine's flavors that evoke the terroir and its stony soil. Now reaching full development, Radikon's 2000 Merlot shows dried leaves, cherries, plum, tobacco, flowers, and licorice flavors. It's a glorious mature Merlot, integrated, interesting and harmonious, and it's drinking now--or five years from now.
Bodega Chacra
Pinot Noir Rio Negro Treinta y Dos 2007, 750ml, $120.00
The flagship wine of the estate, Treinta y Dos (or 1932, the year the vineyard was planted) requires a few years cellaring. A New World wine from Argentina might lead you to expect something opulent, fruit-forward and generous with oak, but this is one composed, structured, fragrant and nuanced wine that embraces its Patagonian terroir. The '09 Treinta y Dos is like a classic sports car--racy, sexy, impeccably built, and a pleasure to the senses: red plum and boysenberry, baking spices, and a waft of mushrooms, a lush texture and structuring yet dense tannins. Drinking 2016-25 and beyond.
Hofstätter
Yngram 2000, 750ml, $62.50
The Hofstätter estate captures in microcosm Alto Adige, all high altitude, steep terraces, Alpine breezes and rushing rivers. While this estate privileges the growing of indigenous grapes, it nonetheless pays homage to Alto Adige's international roots by cultivating several international varietals including the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Both varietals comprise the estate's unique, velvety and dark Yngram. Dense, concentrated and interesting, Yngram holds an abundance of black currants, sweet herbs, raspberry jam and spices. Characterized by mouthwatering tannins balanced by a jaunty acidity, Yngram's complex mineral finish sings, deliciously. Drinking now to 2015.
Movia
Lunar 2007, 750ml, $42.50
Crafted through biodynamic methods by Movia's mad genius, Ales Kristancic, this 100% Ribolla wine has a vitality, a robustness, and an aliveness that mirrors its maker. It might be the fact that it's bottled without fining or filtration at the height of the full moon, or it might be merely Movia magic, but Lunar is an age-worthy beauty. Fresh as summer rain, struck by acidity and minerality, and showcasing a mélange of nearly indescribably notes--citrus, peach, fennel and cardamom, to name a few--the '07 Lunar will make a convert out of you. Drinking now to 2018 and quite possibly beyond.
COS
Nero di Lupo 2008, 750ml, $35.07
There's nothing like an indigenous grape crafted with love, and the Cos Nero di Lupo is just that. Nero d'Avola makes a deep purple wine, a hefty masculine wine that glints with dark cherry, and the Nero di Lupo turns that wine into something magical and complex. Fruity, funky, and earthy, the Nero di Lupo has balance that will surprise you. A different wine for people who appreciate the wild, the wooly and the wonderful. Drinking now to 2015.
De Conciliis
Selim Spumante Brut NV, 750ml, $21.45
Crafted from Fiano and Aglianico, two grapes indigenous to Campania, this tank method Spumante has a refreshing nose of tropical and citrus fruits, peach and apple. Intense, unusual and beautifully balanced, Selim is a fitting tribute to its namesake, Miles Davis. Drinking now, exuberantly.
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