A Note from Sergio
In the Unites States, "number two" is a dirty word. No one likes to come in second in a country that prides itself on first place. But this kind of white-and-black thinking isn't the case everywhere, and when we overlook the seconds--especially in wine--we're overlooking the producers who are eager, new, hungry and amazing.
The best example of how coming in second in wine isn't a bad thing is to look at the classification system of Bordeaux. No question that the 1855 system has problems, and that sometimes changes in ownership or the ravages of time can mean that the system isn't always up to date, but there's also no shame attached to being given a rating of Second Growth (especially when there are four sublevels below you, laying a strong foundation for your estimable worth). In fact, many 2nd and 3rd Growths have had performances that have exceeded the 1st. In a lot of ways, this kind of ratings system makes sense for areas like Bordeaux with its intense history--or for Montalcino for its dizzying number of microclimates and ballooning number of producers.
There is no question that the top tier producers of Brunello like Biondi Santi and Soldera stand in a field by themselves. But you can't always commit to a wine of the stature of Biondi Santi or the complexity of Soldera, and for those times when you're seeking a quality Brunello with a sense of adventure, I suggest to look to what I call the "Super Seconds" of Brunello: Il Palazzone, Valdicava, Cerbaionia, and Salvioni, which we're offering today; or Poggione di Sotto, which we'll be offering soon.
Second tier is anything but second rate when you're talking these producers. Il Palazzone, owned since 2000 by current Chairman of Citigroup and former Time Warner CEO Richard Parsons and managed by enologist Paolo Vagaggini, creates exquisite, ravishing wines from a mere ten acres. Valdicava has been around since 1953, but the technological changes that owner Vincenzo Abbruzzese made when he took control have resulted in outstandingly rich Brunellos with impeccable structure. Cerbaiona's Diego Molinari has been crafting pure, elegant Brunellos that nevertheless pack a gorgeous punch since 1981. And the team of Giulio Salvioni and enologist Attilio Pagli make Brunellos whose concentration and finesse have inspired a cult following. It's exciting to look at that list and realize that if you judge from these producers' wines, Brunello can only get better.
This week, I'm delighted to bring you some of my favorite "Super Seconds" of Brunello. Open a bottle with your second-in-command and toast to those who can be easily overlooked, however deserving they are of their time in the spotlight.
My Best,
P.S. You can now follow me on Twitter: @Italian_Wine_SE.
Featured Wines
Il Palazzone
Brunello di Montalcino 2006, 750ml, $99.00
Intense, concentrated, ripe, delicious--these descriptors all apply to Il Palazzone's Brunello, and one sip will render you helpless to its inestimable charms. Its ruby color and mid-weight belie the wine's complexity; ripe berries dance atop a bed of chocolate, smoke and herbs, while tannins wrap your palate in a velvety glove. Seductive and drinking 2012-2022.
Valdicava
Brunello di Montalcino 2006, 750ml, $109.99
Brunello di Montalcino 2006, 1500ml, $224.99
Brunello di Montalcino 2006, 3000ml, $469.99
An elegant, suave Brunello, the '06 Valdicava embodies all of its estate's mastery in its jammy nose of frutti di bosco, earth and pipe tobacco. Silky tannins caress your palate, and the wine's subtle heft feels good in your mouth. This supple wine needs at least five years in the cellar--and a couple more will only work to make it even more worth the wait. Drinking 2012-2025.
Salvioni
Brunello di Montalcino 2006, 750ml, $140.00
This is the true cult Brunello. A small estate that puts out only 500-600 cases a year, a super-concentrated Brunello, and enologist Attilio Pagli's hot reputation among wine cognoscenti means that Salvioni is one producer whose wines sell out during preorder. The '06 is a gorgeous wine and Montalcino's broadest shouldered, well-dressed and polished wine of the vintage. It's a fine linen suit covering a muscular body and a well-defined core. Drinking 2015-2027.
Cerbaonia
Brunello di Montalcino 2006, 750ml, $175.00
Established by former pilot Diego Molinari with the 1981 vintage, this estate has since performed flawlessly, creating Brunellos of power and elegance. Possessing an intense ruby in color spiked with brilliant hues, this wine's palate shows very ripe red fruit with spice and minerals, full body and firm flavors. Fleshy, concentrated fruit and well-evolved tannins glide into a long, delicious finish. Drinking 2013-2030.
Everyday Rossos Under $50
Valdicava
Rosso di Montalcino 2008, 750ml, $34.80
Fresh, vibrant, and charming, this Rosso shimmers across your palate on a bed of ripe berries and plums, a smattering of cinnamon and a touch of earth. Light-to-medium-bodied and redolent of its big brother Brunello, the '08 Rosso from Valdicava is a delightful wine with which to wile away your time waiting for your Brunello to age. Drinking now, happily.
Canalicchio di Sopra
Rosso di Montalcino 2008, 750ml, $27.00
Often considered Brunello's "little brother," Rosso di Montalcino is younger, fresher, and, most importantly, immediately enjoyable. Expect a vibrant ruby wine with a robust core of dark berries and cherries, a streak of minerality and notes of citrus peel. This elegant yet fruity wine is a fabulous complement to pastas, roasted meats and serious cheeses. Drinking now, because it's hard to wait for your Brunello.
**Indicates pre-arrival
^ Special pricing. Prices in effect until March 10, 2011.
Upcoming Tasting Events
Two Legendary Winemaker Dinners, Two IWM Firsts
Burgundy's Louis Jadot and Barolo's Guiseppe Rinaldi
The Passion of Burgundy: A Winemaker Dinner with Jacques Lardiere of Louis Jadot
Featuring the Premier and Grand Cru Burgundy of Louis Jadot
Date: Monday, March 21
Time: 7:00PM
Place: The Studio del Gusto at Italian Wine Merchants
Price: $175.00
Attention, Burgundy lovers, we're pleased to announce a first for Italian Wine Merchants: a winemaker dinner with a producer of fine Burgundy. On Monday, March 21, we're delighted to host Jacques Lardiere of Louis Jadot for a special evening of sparkling conversation, delicious food and, of course, fine wines--including Premier and Grand Crus of Burgundy. During this five-course dinner prepared by our own Chef Kevin Sippel, Lardiere, accompanied by his apprentice Frederic Barnier, will discuss winemaking in Burgundy, give his insights into Burgundian terroir and, most of all, embody the passion, artistry and elegance of France's most esteemed region. Louis Jadot crafts as many as ninety different labels each season, yet each maintains its own singularity; thus, Lardiere has an especially comprehensive knowledge of Burgundy, including its most historic regions from Corton Charlemagne to Gevrey Chambertin Clos-Saint-Jacques.
Forthright, fervent and charismatic, Lardiere is not a man who minces words. "Look at all the boring wines," he has said, "many of them are technically impeccable, but they have no soul, no personality in them. They could have been manufactured by robots." A winemaker with this kind of passion for his craft makes for a riveting dinner guest. This evening will be an unmistakable treat that wine-lovers--whether avid burghounds or those who are merely Burg-curious--do not want to miss.
Featured wines will include:
Louis Jadot 2007 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Duc de Magenta, Premier Cru
Louis Jadot 2006 Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru
Louis Jadot 2006 Beaune Clos des Ursules, Premier Cru
Louis Jadot 2006 Vosne Romanée Les Suchots, Premier Cru
Louis Jadot 2008 Gevrey Chambertin Clos-Saint-Jacques, Premier Cru
Louis Jadot 2004 Grands Echezeux, Grand Cru
*Wines will be paired with a five-course Burgundy menu
Barolo's Rarest Gem: A Winemaker Dinner with Marta Rinaldi of Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo
Featuring the Legendary Vintages of Piemonte
Date: Tuesday, March 29th
Time: 7:00PM
Place: The Studio del Gusto at Italian Wine Merchants
Price: $195.00
Rinaldi makes their Barolo in tantalizingly small numbers. 500 cases of one, 300 cases of another, just 20 of third: so rare is Rinaldi that even Barolo's most ardent aficionados may not have had it as often as they would like. Therefore, it is with extraordinary delight that we announce that we will be hosting a winemaker dinner with Marta Rinaldi of Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo where we will feature Rinaldi Barolo from these legendary vintages: 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2004 and 2006.
This evening will be of legendary proportions. Rinaldi has never before agreed to appear at a winemaker dinner in the United States, and rarely has anyone had the opportunity to taste a range of the estate's Barolo from such spectacular vintages, including those from magnum that are almost impossible to obtain. While enjoying a five-course menu of Piemontese dishes prepared by IWM Chef Kevin Sippel, you'll enjoy the company and conversation of Marta Rinaldi, a Barolo producer of unwavering tradition, meticulous standards and blazing passion. If you've never tasted a Rinaldi Barolo, you don't know what you're missing, and if you have, you do. Join us for an evening so exceptional that "rare" doesn't begin to do it justice.
Featured wines will include:
Rinaldi 2006 Cannubi (San Lorenzo)/Ravera
Rinaldi 2004 Cannubi (San Lorenzo)/Ravera
Rinaldi 2001 Cannubi (San Lorenzo)/Ravera
Rinaldi 2000 Cannubi (San Lorenzo)/Ravera
Rinaldi 2006 Brunate/LeCoste
Rinaldi 1999 Brunate/LeCoste
Rinaldi 1997 Brunate/LeCoste (from Magnum)
Rinaldi 1996 Brunate/LeCoste
*Wines subject to change
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