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A couple of weeks ago, I visited Toscana and dropped in on Fontodi, one of my favorite producers in Chianti. Fontodi is putting the finishing touches on an addition to their cellar facility. It's a huge undertaking that's more than doubling the size of the estate, something that the Manetti family, owners of the property since the late '60s, sees as necessary as they prepare for the next century of winemaking. More importantly, it's a venture that looks forward to the future, even as it respects the primeval.

Fontodi sits at the heart of Toscana in region called the "Conca d'Oro," or the golden shell. In terms of winemaking tradition, it's hallowed ground, a natural sweeping arc of land that whorls in upon itself, yellow as a golden retriever in the late summer and green as a salad in spring. Fontodi rests on a hill above it, and as you survey the grounds, dotted with olive trees and bushes that pop with yellow flowers in some seasons and purple in others, you see a serene and singular sight. It's a place that's so deeply steeped in history and so naturally beautiful that it's easy to get swept up in it.

When Giovanni Manetti chose to expand the estate by building this addition, he chose to do it in a way that gives honor to the Conca d'Oro. The addition is a very large, lofty room with cathedral ceilings, warm wood, a tile floor, and a giant skylight. Most remarkable is that in the middle of this addition grows a towering tree whose branches reach toward the ceiling. I'm not sure what kind of tree it is, but I do know that it's deciduous and it's old. Its trunk must be about two feet in diameter. It's huge, beautiful, and the very picture of the kind of tree a kid would draw.

It would have been easier--and a lot less expensive--for Manetti to cut down that beautiful tree and to rip up its roots. He didn't because that tree isn't just the focal point of the addition; it's also a powerful visual metaphor. This tree flourishing in the middle of this giant new room symbolizes how Fontodi has always made its wine in accordance with nature and why it will constantly renew that commitment in the future. Fontodi is certified organic, but more than that, the estate is committed to working with the earth, to creating wine that speaks of the earth where its grapes grew, and to giving homage to the heritage that created the wine. It's for these reasons that the tree will stand at the center of the estate's expansion. It's reminder of all that Fontodi has stood for and all that it will continue to support.

This week, I'm happy to offer wines from Fontodi and from nearby San Giusto A Rentannano. Both of these estates choose to make wines organically so that they can nourish the planet that sustains the grapes and nourish the souls of the people who drink the wines. This kind of holistic philosophy--one that takes into account the health of the soil, the importance of finding inspiration in history while looking forward to the future, and a recognition that wine brings people together--informs the best winemakers in Italy. It's a good way to live. Trust the roots, reach for those stars, and open a bottle of one of these wines. It'll bring you a touch closer to the primeval, even as you toast to tomorrow.

Summer Deliveries

Italian Wine Merchants will be delivering to the New York City area's summer hotspots, from the Hamptons to the Jersey Shore. We'll ship your wine for you so you'll get it in time for your weekend festivities via UPS or our own delivery service. Requests for Saturday deliveries need to be received by Thursday at 4:00 in order to process your request in a timely manner. Should you have questions on deliveries or shipping, please contact an IWM Portfolio Manager at (212) 473 2323.