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IWM holds deep admiration for the smaller producers of the sparkling region, in particular the popular category of “Grower Champagnes” or Les Champagnes de Vignerons (“Vinegrower Champagnes”). Despite representing less than 3% of the Champagne market, this is an area that has exploded in recent years with much credit given to the likes of Anselme Selosse (especially in the area of biodynamics), Egly Ouriet and Vilmart. These are growers that simply produce their own wines from their own vines. And like a fine Barolo or Burgundy, grower Champagnes are more reflective of terrior and vintage, experiencing true variation year to year. The larger brands like Moet Chandon are able to deliver a more consistent house style by purchasing grapes throughout the entire region. A brand like Moet Chandon produces more than 20MM bottles each year, a winemaker like Hubert Paulet does just 2,000 cases.
- Country: France
- Region: Champagne
- Subregion: Reims
- Commune/Village: Rilly
Champagne Hubert Paulet works exclusively with estate fruit from Rilly-la-Montagne a premier cru on the north side of the mountain of Riems. The estate was founded toward the end of the 19th century, but only really took off commercially in the 1930s under the direction of Hubert, the current owner’s grandfather. Hubert Paulet is currently being run by the fourth generation. The winery buildings also date back to the end of the 19th century.
The family owned vineyrads cover about 20 acres and lie soley in the Premier Cru village of Rilly. The goal at Hubert Paulet is to extract the best fruit and the best essence of Rilly’s terroir by working the soil and introducing the practice of controlled natural grassing. The average age for their vines is about 22 years which keeps yields at desirably low levels.
They sell half of their grapes to Billecart-Salmon, and make a little less than 2000 cases a year with the other half. The quality of the Champagnes is amazing, the style is very accessible and friendly, and the value (due to our direct relationship with Olivier Paulet) is fantastic. Olivier ferments in both tile and stainless steel vats, and is one of the rare producers to have a pragmatic view on malolactic fermentation. He put half of the blend through malo, since he finds that lactic and malic acids to be complimentary with the lactic adding breadth and the malic adding length to the wine. He is also leaning strongly towards organics, with grass growing between his rows even just days before the harvest, a truly rare sight in the chalk and vines landscape of Champagne.
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