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Intense, concentrated, ripe, delicious—these descriptors all apply to Il Palazzone’s Brunello, and one sip will render you helpless to its inestimable charms. Its ruby color and mid-weight belie the wine’s complexity; ripe berries dance atop a bed of chocolate, smoke and herbs, while tannins wrap your palate in a velvety glove. Seductive and drinking 2012-2022.
- Country: Italy
- Region: Toscana
- Subregion/Appellation: Brunello di Montalcino
Ironically, Il Palazzone—The Big Palace—is a small estate of 20 acres (only ten of which are approved for Brunello production) situated in the heart of the Montalcino production region and within close proximity to the historic Costanti estate. In this part of Montalcino, grapes circumvent the harsh heat of vintages such as 1999 and 2000, avoiding the overripeness that occurs in other areas of Montalcino. Indeed, it is in this region and heading southwest towards Tavernelle that the greatest, most structured Brunello is produced. Under the right guidance, these wines exhibit an austere character, possessing the ability to age beyond the standard timeframe.
These qualities have been achieved by Richard Parsons, chairman of Time Warner, who acquired the estate in 2001, instituting a heightened qualitative regime by naming famed oenologist Paolo Vagaggini (who has worked with the estates of Nardi, Uccelliera, and Fuligni) as winemaker. This formidable talent combines with the inherent virtues of Il Palazzone’s location—an altitude of 480 meters provides cooling and ventilation; an established root system allows for resilience during drought periods; and the tufaceous and chalky soils impart a mineral dimension to the wine—to produce structured, cellar-worthy wines of marked elegance.
Indeed, Il Palazzone adheres to the original maturation paradigm for Brunello, aging its Brunellos in accordance with the traditional DOCG prescription of three years—though some vintages receive additional aging beyond this minimum. Il Palazzone also extends the period of bottle aging, releasing its wines six to eight months later than most estates. The estate’s classic orientation is further actualized in the aging regimen, which frequently entails a combination of Slavonian oak and barrique and in some instances, the exclusive use of Slavonian oak.
Until recently, Il Palazzone focused exclusively on the area’s traditional bottlings— Brunello di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, and Rosso di Montalcino. In the 2005 vintage, however, it received a new member into its royal Montalcino portfolio—Lorenzo & Isabelle, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. While Parsons’ ardent love of Brunello precipitated his purchase of Il Palazzone, this new bottling—named after his parents—celebrates and indulges his passion for Super-Tuscans.
Although the demands of Parsons’ NYC emporium hardly afford time for extra-media affairs, Parsons didn’t gratuitously append a customized family crest to the label. He frequents his Tuscan outpost to ensure that his vinous releases are In Style, projecting elegance, complexity, and most importantly, terroir. His motto—“We drink all we can and sell the rest”—could, perhaps, be modified somewhat. With an exceedingly limited case production—L & I’s premiere totaled 565, with Brunello production figures ranging roughly from 400 to 650 cases—acquiring access to Parsons’ vino titles is hardly Real Simple.
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