MoviaThey say location is everything—a cultural maxim that operates in the wine realm via the concept of terroir. With respect to Movia, however, it takes on political import, as this winery’s vineyards occupy both sides of the Italian–Slovenian border. As the physical winery and mailbox reside on the Slovenian side, Movia wines are accorded the appellation of Brda (the Slovenian name for Collio) as opposed to Collio.
Movia has been producing wine for more than three centuries; purchased by the Kristancic family in 1820, the estate recently passed from Mirko to Ales, his young son. Ales, a French-and Italian-trained winemaker, pursues a historically minded, yet radical, approach to winemaking that includes aging of the whites in 600-liter Slovenian oak casks or traditional Slovenian barriques (which are actually smaller than French barriques), leaving them on the lees without stirring for more than two years. His approach to the reds is no less as novel, with each being treated in accordance with its particular makeup. The aging period for reds spans a period of three to seven years. As with the whites, maturation is performed exclusively in small Slovenian oak casks and provides a consummate example of oak operating as a cosmetic tool rather than as a prime interpretive medium. Racking is never performed, and the fining and filtering procedures are governed by the atmospheric pressure incurred by the arrival of the new moon. This constitutes a wholly natural approach that presents the wines in a state of brilliant clarity.
Students and winemakers around the globe study his techniques, and many visit him to observe and learn firsthand. His vinification and viticultural philosophy cannot be construed as either traditional or even purely natural; rather, it is a reflection of a collective wisdom acquired and refined over two centuries of winemaking at the Movia estate. Terms that have been rendered virtually meaningless in the wine world due to gratuitous usage—green harvest, 100 percent new French barrique and low yields—are not part of Movia’s viticultural frame of reference. Production is informed by fine-tuned biodynamic principles that reflect a thorough understanding of vine and root management.
Opening Procedure for Movia Puro
Here is an option for opening this special wine. The wine is shipped from the producer undisgorged, meaning the sediment (lees) remains from the grape is aged with the wine—the winemaker believes this is the soul of the wine and to filter it out long before its opening would lessen the integrity of the wine. To fully experience this wine as the winemaker intended, we recommend the procedure below. If you choose to open the sparkling wine in the same manner as a typical champagne bottle, the sediment will cloud the wine but it will remain safe to drink. The other alternative, and perhaps the easiest of the three, is to decant the wine using (best results are with a decanter filter).
1. Store the wine properly.
Keep the unopened bottle upside down at all times. This will move the sediment towards the neck of the bottle. The bottle should be kept upside down for at least one day before serving.
2. Prepare the bottle for opening.
Place the bottle (primarily the neck) upside down in ice for at least 20 minutes. The sediment will slowly freeze inside the bottle.
3. Fill a large bucket or bowl with water.
The preferred mediums are clear plastic or glass, since they allow others to view the process underwater.
4. Submerge the bottle neck in water.
Keeping the bottle upside down, remove the foil wrapper and wire cage. Use one hand to hold the base of the bottle so the neck is submerged in the bucket of water.
5. Disgorge the bottle underwater.
With your other hand, use a towel or rubber grip to remove the cork underwater. After the sediment plug is released, quickly remove the bottle from the water, lifting it to an upright position.