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The Wine of Veneto

Wines of VenetoThe Veneto’s most well-known still white wine is Soave, a designation that has been compromised through both viticultural and vinification methods and the enlargement of the zone. While it was originally a blend of Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave (both aromatic varieties), changes in DOC regulations permitted the introduction of a more mundane strain of Trebbiano (Toscano) as well as Chardonnay, thereby precipitating the widespread production of a fairly vapid wine. However, Soave bottlings that pair Garganega with Trebbiano di Soave tend to offer a substantive flavor profile. While Soave is not the only white DOC, the others, Lugana and Gambellara, primarily involve the same varietals. The former (which is shared with Lombardia), privileges Trebbiano di Soave, and some bottlings realize a substantive aromatic presence. With respect to the latter, Garganega exercises its dominance, as it represents a minimum of 80% of the blend. The category also includes several varietally labeled wines that are fairly simple in character. Valpolicella is, in many respects, the red counterpart to Soave, as its image has suffered from mass production.

However, unlike Soave, it operates a stylistic hierarchy: Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore and/or Ripasso, Amarone della Valpolicella, and Recioto della Valpolicella generally comprise the grape trio of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. Valpolicella Classico (Classico denoting a wine made in the inner, superior Valpolicella zone) is the simplest expression of the Valpolicella quartet. At the Superiore level, Valpolicella must achieve higher alcohol content, receive longer aging, and display more body and structure than the simple Valpolicella. To realize these qualities, many Superiore are treated via one of two techniques: “governo alla Toscana” or ripasso. Under the “governo alla Toscana” method, producers blend the finished Valpolicella with a small percentage of Amarone remaining from a previous batch. Others employ the ripasso method, enriching the Valpolicella wine through direct contact with (or passing through) the Amarone’s lees.
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Begali Tigiolo 2004, 750ml Corte Sant'Alda Valpolicella Superiore Mithas 2004, 750ml
Our Price: $44.75
Our Price: $87.45
Begali Tigiolo 2004 Corte Sant'Alda Valpolicella Superiore Mithas 2004
The vineyards cover 18 acres in the rolling hills of a commune of Valpolicella, called Cengia. Following harvest in the end of September, the grapes were pressed and transferred into stainless steel tanks where fermentation and maceration took 2 weeks, then, the wine went to be aged in French oak barrels for 18 month. The wine was bottled and aged for an additional 6 months prior to release. Dark garnet in color. Aromas of figs and wild berries. Subtle on the palate yet intriguing with its harmonious balance and great finish. Only made in exceptional years, the grapes for the Mithas cru are derived from Corte Sant'Alda's elite vineyard site, Macie. The soil found in this site is rich in humus and allows for higher nutrient and mineral absorption, translating into exceptional fruit.

Grapes are harvested in October when fully ripe and if the weather permits natural fermentation occurs. After this delicate period, the wine is transferred to new French oak for 24 months.

The Valpolicella Superiore Mithas has concentrated dark fruit aromas with well-rounded tannins and a lengthy finish.
Corte Sant'Alda Amarone della Valpolicella 2004, 750ml Dal Forno Romano Valpolicella Superiore 2004
Our Price: $136.94
Our Price: $159.00
Dal Forno Romano Amarone della Valpolicella 2003 Dal Forno Romano Valpolicella Superiore 2004
Amarone della Valpolicella (Amarone from Valpolicella), is the masterpiece of the Veneto. With its rich flavors of raisins, dried fig, spice, mineral, and tar, it is easy to understand why oenophiles are enamored of its persona. Amarone has long resided in the upper echelon of Italian wine, operating on par with Barolo and Brunello. No other dry wine in the world offers Amarone's level of extraction and complexity, enveloped by a glorious, velvety body.

The intense and inimitable flavors of Amarone derive from its traditional production techniques. Winemakers carefully select Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara grapes, which they spread out in single layers to dry on straw or plastic mats for 60 to 100 days. During this time, the grapes lose a substantive amount of water weight, dramatically concentrating their sugars. Thereafter, the raisined grapes are crushed and fully fermented into a heady and robust wine. 		Governo alla Toscana is one of two methods (the other is ripasso) that producers utilize to fashion a Valpolicella that realizes greater richness than the Valpolicella normale—achieving higher alcohol content, displaying more body and structure, and receiving a longer period of aging. Under this method (its name pays tribute to its original identity as a re-fermentation technique used in the Chianti zone), producers blend the finished Valpolicella with a small percentage of Amarone (from withered and concentrated grapes) remaining from a previous batch. Dal Forno's use of governo alla Toscana imparts a richness to the wine that takes it beyond the performance of many Amarones, producing what may be the ultimate expression of Valpolicella.
Dal Forno Romano Valpolicella Superiore 2003 Quintarelli Amabile 1990, 750ml
Our Price: $169.00
Our Price: $237.66
Dal Forno Romano Valpolicella Superiore 2003 Quintarelli Amabile 1990
Governo alla Toscana is one of two methods (the other is ripasso) that producers utilize to fashion a Valpolicella that realizes greater richness than the Valpolicella normale—achieving higher alcohol content, displaying more body and structure, and receiving a longer period of aging. Under this method (its name pays tribute to its original identity as a re-fermentation technique used in the Chianti zone), producers blend the finished Valpolicella with a small percentage of Amarone (from withered and concentrated grapes) remaining from a previous batch. Dal Forno's use of governo alla Toscana imparts a richness to the wine that takes it beyond the performance of many Amarones, producing what may be the ultimate expression of Valpolicella. Produced but rarely—with its vintage appearances numbering in the single digits—Quintarelli's white passito blend derives form late-harvest grapes, many of which have been affected by botrytis cinerea (aka, "noble rot"), a beneficent fungus that serves to concentrate the grapes' constituents (flavors and sugars). A period of humid or wet weather succeeded by a dry phase precipitates such a phenomenon. Should the humidity or rain continue for an unabated period, the resultant fungus will be anything but noble, effectually becoming the villainous alter ego known as gray rot. In this form, the fungus serves as a wholly destructive agent.
Dal Forno Romano Amarone della Valpolicella 2002, 750ml Dal Forno Romano Amarone della Valpolicella 2003
Our Price: $399.00
Our Price: $399.00
Dal Forno Romano Amarone della Valpolicella 2002 Dal Forno Romano Amarone della Valpolicella 2003
As Dal Forno’s discriminating selection process admits only the highest quality grapes into that room, ’02 emerged in quintessential Dal Forno form, which is to say, answering to Dal Forno first and acknowledging the vintage only to its advantage and ours—in gloriously early accessibility. Dal Forno crafts a wine unlike any other in the Veneto. Even in this tricky vintage, using strict vineyard management and sophisticated technique in the cellar he achieves density, weight, complexity and polish that simply don’t exist in concert in the wines of any other producer. Dal Forno’s Amarone well deserves its reputation as one of Italy’s best.A blend of Corvinone (60%), Rondinella (20%), Croatina (10%), and Oselata (10%) made in the appassimento style—the grapes are spread on straw mats for three months to drain them of their water and concentrate their sugar, crushed and fermented in a stainless steel vat for six days during which the cap is submerged with rigorous frequency, and aged in new French oak barriques for two years then in the bottle for 12 months more. This rich, expansive wine is one of the best of its kind.
Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella 1998, 1500ml Giuseppe Quintarelli Amabile del Cere Bandito 1985, 750ml
Our Price: $759.00
Our Price: $899.00
Giuseppe Quintarelli Amabile del Cere Bandito 1985
Sergio has confessed that he remains at a loss as to how Quintarelli does that thing he does—namely, the crafting of life-altering wines that induce impassioned states in wine enthusiasts of all persuasions. Quintarelli once told Sergio that the most integral element in a winemaker's approach is patience—a virtue that is virtually obsolete in the realm of the modern winemaker. While Sergio entertained the possibility that patience might be the method to the Master's majesty, he concluded that Quintarelli's wines simply can't be rationalized. Patience, however, is necessary when encountering these expressions: "They are thinking wines, meaning that they force you to reflect.  Nothing else even comes close. You may confuse a Giacomo Conterno Monfortino with a Bartolo Mascarello Barolo...[and] a California Cabernet with a first-growth Bordeaux, but once you taste Quintarelli you'll never forget." ~Sergio Esposito    Intense with complex structure and strength that make this wine suitable for long-term aging in the cellar. Produced but rarely—with its vintage appearances numbering in the single digits—Quintarelli's white passito blend derives form late-harvest grapes, many of which have been affected by botrytis cinerea (aka, "noble rot"), a beneficent fungus that serves to concentrate the grapes' constituents (flavors and sugars). A period of humid or wet weather succeeded by a dry phase precipitates such a phenomenon. Should the humidity or rain continue for an unabated period, the resultant fungus will be anything but noble, effectually becoming the villainous alter ego known as gray rot. In this form, the fungus serves as a wholly destructive agent.  
 
At times meriting comparison to what is arguably the world's most famous dessert wine, Chateau d'Yquem, Quintarelli's multilayered and dense Bianco Amabile honors a Venetian tradition that is on the threshold of becoming obsolete. A heady concoction of brown sugar, candied apricots, toffee, honey, nuts, and orange liqueur, the Amabile's richness is aptly balanced by penetrating acidity. It is aged for approximately a decade prior to release.
Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella 1998, 750ml Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella 2000, 750ml
Our Price: $1,449.00
Our Price: $1,500.00
Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella 1998 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella 2000
Sergio has confessed that he remains at a loss as to how Quintarelli does that thing he does—namely, the crafting of life-altering wines that induce impassioned states in wine enthusiasts of all persuasions. Quintarelli once told Sergio that the most integral element in a winemaker's approach is patience—a virtue that is virtually obsolete in the realm of the modern winemaker. While Sergio entertained the possibility that patience might be the method to the Master's majesty, he concluded that Quintarelli's wines simply can't be rationalized. Patience, however, is necessary when encountering these expressions: "They are thinking wines, meaning that they force you to reflect.  Nothing else even comes close. You may confuse a Giacomo Conterno Monfortino with a Bartolo Mascarello Barolo...[and] a California Cabernet with a first-growth Bordeaux, but once you taste Quintarelli you'll never forget." ~Sergio Esposito    Intense with complex structure and strength that make this wine suitable for long-term aging in the cellar. Sergio has confessed that he remains at a loss as to how Quintarelli does that thing he does—namely, the crafting of life-altering wines that induce impassioned states in wine enthusiasts of all persuasions. Quintarelli once told Sergio that the most integral element in a winemaker's approach is patience—a virtue that is virtually obsolete in the realm of the modern winemaker. While Sergio entertained the possibility that patience might be the method to the Master's majesty, he concluded that Quintarelli's wines simply can't be rationalized. Patience, however, is necessary when encountering these expressions: "They are thinking wines, meaning that they force you to reflect.  Nothing else even comes close. You may confuse a Giacomo Conterno Monfortino with a Bartolo Mascarello Barolo...[and] a California Cabernet with a first-growth Bordeaux, but once you taste Quintarelli you'll never forget." ~Sergio Esposito    Intense with complex structure and strength that make this wine suitable for long-term aging in the cellar.
   
 
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