Sicilia is the new hot spot for wine, and the wines of the small, organic, artisanal producer Porta del Vento help to explain why. This mono-varietal bottling of Nero d’Avola, one of Sicilia’s indigenous grapes, offers ripe, juicy black and blue berries, a delicious bed of cinnamon and cloves, an underlying streak of minerality, and a zippy spray of saline all on a full, round body. One sip, and you can just about hear the waves. Drinking now.
Indigenous to Sicilia, Perricone may be a clone of Barbera, but there’s no doubt that in the hands of Porta del Vento that its bitter, blue-tinged grapes make for an unexpected, delicious wine. Sporting the acidic freshness of an ocean breeze, the Maque Perricone 2010 gives a rustic, ruby-red glass full of sour cherries and black plums, white pepper and herbs, laid atop a thrumming bass line of earth, iron and meat and complemented with tannins like a steel fist in a velvet glove. It’s a thrilling wine, one whose balance between glycerin silkiness and tart acidity gives pleasure with every sip. Drinking now.