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The Sicilian wines have recently become all the rage, and the wines of Porta del Vento go a long way to explain why. A certified organic estate that also employs biodynamic growing protocol, Porta del Vento, or “Gate of the Wind” in English, sits at 600 feet above sea level in Valdibella in the province of Palermo. The name of the estate should give an inkling to the unique terroir of Porta del Vento--it’s high, scrubby, sunny, windy, hot and dry land. But beyond all of nature’s gifts (grapes do best when challenged a lot), this ten-acre estate employs some serious labor. Human hands dig the soil because machinery is too damaging to the local biodiversity, and likewise, hands pick the grapes used to make the estate’s wines.
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Porta del Vento Maque Perricone 2010 750ml
Porta del Vento Maque Perricone 2010 750ml
Price: $29.50 Currently Unavailable

Indigenous to Sicilia, Perricone may be a clone of Barbera, but there’s no doubt that in the hands of Porta del Vento that its bitter, blue-tinged grapes make for an unexpected, delicious wine. Sporting the acidic freshness of an ocean breeze, the Maque Perricone 2010 gives a rustic, ruby-red glass full of sour cherries and black plums, white pepper and herbs, laid atop a thrumming bass line of earth, iron and meat and complemented with tannins like a steel fist in a velvet glove. It’s a thrilling wine, one whose balance between glycerin silkiness and tart acidity gives pleasure with every sip. Drinking now.