In building a lexicon of "useful" wine terms, people have lost sight of what's really important about wine. And what's really important about wine is that it is, at its core, delicious. For me, deliciousness is the crucial difference that sets apart Italian wines in general and Italians in specific. To Italians, a wine either is--or isn't--delicious. A meal either is--or isn't--delicious. You enjoy it, it nourishes you, you want more of it, it satisfies you--or it doesn't.
I say all of this as a prelude to introducing the featured wine for today's eLetter, Fuligni 2007 Brunello Riserva. This estate makes delicious wines. Fuligni used to make wines that strayed toward the modern side, but in the last half-decade or so, the estate has grown more traditional, and now its wines are even more complex and bewitching. Your 2010 Brunellos are calling to you, but you don't want to open them quite yet. Instead, uncork this '07 Brunello Riserva from Fuligni, let it aerate, and then savor it slowly with a great steak or one of your favorite hearty dishes. It'll be delicious.
It can be hard to find the Burgundies of Anne & Sébastien Bidault. The estate is small and it's new, but it's nonetheless mighty. IWM's portfolio managers love to pour Bidault's wines at tastings and this old-vine 2013 Clos de la Roche will make you see why. Finally, I'm very proud to offer a quartet of Didier Dagueneau's wines; a couple of weeks ago, I offered a lone Pouilly-Fumé, and I managed to score more of this producer's outrageously good wines, including a bottle of the estate's very low production dessert wine. You don't want to miss them.