BrunaFor
more than three decades Riccardo Bruna has worked the native
Ligurian varietal Pigato on the steep terraces that rise
out of the Mediterranean. Here at the end of the Imperia
province, the Azienda Bruna, highlighted by the Russeghine
vineyard, experiences exceptionally conducive climate conditions
for the production of the Pigato grape, which is enhanced
by the gravelly subsoil of the dry, permeable red earth that
allows for deep root development.
Though undoubtedly ancient, this grape is said to be many things, from a
Greek import to a native of the Castelli Romani, planted by Caesar's
legions, to a relative of Vermentino. In fact, some experts posit that
Pigato and Vermentino are inherently one and the same, their apparent
differences born of distinct terroir and treatment in the vineyard and
cellar. In tourist country the wine is often used simply as a table wine
for the local seafood. But Riccardo's mission is different. He makes
three Pigato wines - U Baccan, Le Russeghine, and Villa Torrachetta -
each with different intentions. Unlike their neighbors, Riccardo and his
daughters Francesca and Anna Maria refuse to mask the grape's true
character with the hocus-pocus of technological "innovations." They
therefore limit technical input in the vinification and aging phases to
the bare necessities, especially in the case of the U Baccan, their
signature wine which has only been produced since 1999 and is not
created in off years. As a result, and with only 180 cases produced,
this is one of the year's most highly sought-after wines.
Wines:
Pigato Le Russeghine
Pigat U Baccan
Pulin
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