Montalcino is a magical place. Even when hordes of tourists wander, dazed with Brunello, canvas wine bag around their necks and wine glass clenched in their hands, the magic swirls and glistens. There is a reason why Brunello has exploded to the point of saturation, and that reason is Montalcino; it imbues everything it touches, as long as what it touches is real, authentic, and genuinely Tuscan. You can taste it in the food, smell it in the air, and when the Brunello is good, you can breathe it into your nose, hold it in your mouth and swallow it whole. The stone, the earth, the water, the sun, the cypress needles, the olive trees, the cinghiali--it's all there, in every whiff, in every sip, and this is what I look for in a Brunello.
Last week, I brought you the first of the 2010 Brunello Riservas, a beautiful bottle from Il Poggione. Today, I'm following up that offer with a new allocation of the estate's normale wine from the same benchmark vintage. I often describe Il Poggione's Brunellos by saying that they remind me of a welterweight boxer. They're typically lean and muscly, but graceful and packing a powerful punch. This 2010 vintage takes that profile and adds a layer of nuance that will make your head spin--in a good way!
Along with this reboot, I'm very happy to present a Grower Champagne that your holiday celebrations need, Roger Coulon 2007 Brut Millesime Blanc de Noirs. It'll make your food sing, and your guests raise their glasses for more. You'll also find a collection of wines from Burgundy's rock star winemaker, Nicolas Rossignol. All these Volnay and Pommard bottles are on sale and all of them are knockouts.