Step down the stairs into Bruno De Conciliis' cantina, and the sinuous wail of a trumpet echoes off the walls, the drum beats to your footsteps, and the darkness is made lighter yet more mysterious by the sound of Bruno's favorite music: jazz. Bruno's flagship wine is Naima, which gets its name from a John Coltrane song, but he doesn't just name his wine after music--his wine is music. Bruno plays jazz to his wines as the age. If you consider how much wine, a living thing, responds to vibrations, you can't dismiss the effect of the music on the maturing wines. They've got to feel it, and they've got to respond to the wild, strange, beautiful strains.
Today, I'm very pleased to bring back a client favorite, the De Conciliis Donnaluna Fiano 2012, a gorgeous, textured white that's hard to describe. It's acidic and dripping with fruit, but it's also slightly salty; it's got this caramel mouth-feel in a body that's completely dry; it's a beautiful wine and it vibrates with the power, the energy and the beauty of music. It's a wonderful all-weather wine, and it will make you glow from the inside out.
Along with this winter white, I'm very pleased to present two more. Last night, IWM and I played host to a historic occasion, Josko Gravner's first visit to New York City and his first winemaker dinner here. It was a delicious, intimate affair. Since there was only room for eight at the table, I decided to give you an opportunity to pour two of the favorite wines from last night, Josko's '05 Breg Anfora and '05 Ribolla Gialla Anfora. These are two kaleidoscopic, hard to describe wines that I love to pour at my own table. Finally, I'm very happy to present a $40 cru Barbaresco from Ada Nada. This estate's wines just get better, and it's a beautiful thing to have a Barbaresco always on hand.
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