my youth I kept busy. There was a romance with Burgundy, an affair with
Barolo, and a fling with Brunello. A long weekend with Taurasi and a
courtship with a cute Friulian white. A long, lingering kiss with
Chianti Classico. And then I met Giacosa Barbaresco, and I fell head
over heels in love.
wine was a 1978 Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva and the year was 1992. I was
in my early twenties, and the wine, even if chronologically fourteen,
felt mature, in her thirties by wine age. I was already considered a
veteran--I had drunk many wines by then and had also tasted, probably
methodically and thoughtlessly, a few Giacosa wines. But on that special
night something happened. As I sat with the wine in my glass,
surrounded by a few friends and lots of chattering floating around me, I
noticed something. This wine was deeply beautiful, warm, inviting and
yet forceful. I began to be aware of how the wine made me feel, rather
than what I felt. I blushed, excited and a little nervous; I didn't want
it to end. And then I realized I was being seduced and I was completely
falling for this Barbaresco.
was many years ago, but I still can't forget it. I also can't forebear
talking about it, however embarrassing it is to describe. But it's the
truth and this feeling has never gone away. Giacosa wines have ever
since been one of my greatest love affairs. Year in and out Giacosa's
wines make me blush and lose my breathe. Just one sweet inhalation of
the wine's aromatics, its profumo, and I am transported back to that 1992 night.
I'm very proud to present a wine you can't find anywhere else in the
United States, Bruno Giacosa 1967 Barbaresco. I was only able to secure a
handful of these bottles, but they are special. When I drink this wine,
I think about Bruno as a young man, toiling in the cellar in the prime
of his life, and I feel his vitality in the wine's energy as I sip. I
also think about me in my youth, being in my twenties and blushing as I
drank that Giacosa Riserva, and how that moment forever changed my
understanding of wine, what it offers, and how special it can be.
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