The hot buzz-phrase among winemakers is something about wine being made in the vineyard. This is something that the winemakers of Sassicaia have been saying for years--because for years, it has been the absolute truth. "Good grapes make good wine," Sebastiano Rosa said once when I visited, waving his hand almost dismissively at the rows of casks. "Everything's done in the vineyards." The shining steel and glass almost seemed to disappear with his words; all I could see was the dusky purple of healthy grapes, the green of leaves, and the glint of rocky soil. I could imagine estate founder Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta saying the same words. Trusting the greatness of its grapes has underpinned the whole Tenuta San Guido enterprise since the beginning.
The subtext of producers saying that their wine is made in the vineyards means that when the weather is great, the vinegrowers have it easy, and when the weather isn't great, the vinegrowers are very, very busy. In 2015 in Bolgheri, the weather was pretty great, so Sebastiano Rosa and his team had fun making Tenuta San Guido's Guidalberto in that vintage--and it shows! This wine feels playful as you drink it, energetic and sunny. But by calling the wine "playful" I'm not saying it's not an outstanding wine; rather, I'm saying that you can feel its personality, the one shaped by the warm weather and the perfect rainfall on the vines' leaves. The '15 Guidalberto is a happy child of a happy vintage, and you will love it.
Along with this recent Guidalberto release, there's one superb, affordable Nebbiolo from Renzo Seghesio, the estate's delicious 2012 Ruri Langhe Nebbiolo. 2012 was a warm Piemonte vintage, and this wine almost hugs you from the glass, and this wine is so good, you'll want to hug it back. Finally, you'll find all of Meursault on sale. A classic Meursault can feel thick, like honey or even olive oil, yet the wine typically has a medium body. People often describe it using words like "creamy" and making analogies to hazelnuts and vanilla, but it's a wine that's also marked by a wonderful stony minerality. If you're a wine-lover who likes a wine that contradicts itself, you probably love Meursault. There are more than thirty bottles of Meursault in today's eLetter, so get out there and explore them!