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The Wines of Campania

Wines of CampaniaWhile Aglianico headlines the red varieties, Piedirosso, with which it is frequently blended, is acquiring greater recognition; many producers, in fact, craft single-varietal bottlings of the grape. Casavecchia and Pallagrello are two of the other recovered varietals, focused on exclusively by Vestini Campagnano. In general, the reds tend to be quite powerful in expression, while the whites, in contrast, are far less demonstrative, yet display an enervating acidity. While many, like Greco di Tufa and Falanghina, are mild in flavor some, particularly Fiano, project rather stirring aromatics. All are generally marked by restraint—lending them a particular affinity with food.
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De Conciliis Selim Spumante Brut NV
De Conciliis Selim Spumante Brut NV
Price: $21.45
Currently Unavailable.

Elegant, fresh, and mineral-laden, the De Conciliis NV Selim Spumante Brut is a rare Campanian sparkler. Bursting with tropical and orchard fruits, the Selim dances across the palate with saline minerality and citrus zest; it’s elegant and lively, an ideal wine for aperitivi. A blend of 55% Aglianico, 35% Fiano and 10% Barbera grown in mineral-rich clay soils, this wine ferments in stainless steel to preserve its terroir, getting its second fermentation in the bottle; after some months, the yeast is disgorged and a small dosage is added. Intense, unusual and beautifully balanced, Selim is a fitting tribute to its namesake, Miles Davis.
Mastroberardino Irpinia Rosato Lacrimarosa 2016 750ml
Mastroberardino Irpinia Rosato Lacrimarosa 2016 750ml
Price: $22.99

“Lacrimarosa” means “pink tear,” a nod to the pale blush color of this remarkably fragrant and delicious wine. Crushed berries and juicy stone fruits dance with peonies, fresh-cut herbs and river rocks in this dry, welcoming ’16 rosato. Nicely textured and altogether delicious, this $23 wine is a lively introduction to the legendary Mastroberardino estate. This mono-varietal Aglianico rosato derives from the Irpinia region in Campania; Mastroberardino’s southwestern-facing plot is composed of stony, clay and limestone soil. Soft pressing gives the wine its pale pink color; grapes ferment and age in stainless steel to maintain a strong sense of terroir.
De Conciliis Donnaluna Fiano 2014 750ml
De Conciliis Donnaluna Fiano 2014 750ml
Price: $24.99
Currently Unavailable.

Complex, zesty and mineral-laden, this ’14 Fiano layers its orchard fruits with crushed rocks, acacia honey, and herbs. Weighty yet fresh, this wine whooshes across the palate with mineral-driven energy, building to a saline finish that complements the wine’s sweet inner perfume of honeyed fruit. Heftier and more complex than Pinot Grigio, wilder than Chardonnay, De Conciliis’ organic Fiano ferments and ages in stainless steel to better articulate its unique Campanian terroir; it’s one of our favorite value Italian white wines.
De Conciliis Aglianico Donnaluna 2015 750ml
De Conciliis Aglianico Donnaluna 2015 750ml
Price: $24.99
Currently Unavailable.

Peppery spices, crushed wildflowers, licorice, loam and wet river rocks frame the juicy cherries and brambly berries in the muscular and open-knit ’15 Aglicanico Donnaluna. This silky wine coats the palate with copious dry extract and ample chewy tannins, but its fresh acidity and sturdy mineral underpinnings keep it nimble and exciting. De Conciliis crafts its Aglianico Donnaluna to be approachable early--it’s expressive, food-friendly and a complete delight. A mono-varietal Aglianico as of the 2015 vintage, Donnaluna Aglianico ferments in temperature-controlled stainless steel and ages for a year, half in stainless steel and half in used oak.
Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Bianco 2016 750ml
Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Bianco 2016 750ml
Price: $27.99

Pretty and elegant, the ’16 Pallagrello Bianco wafts with sweet stone fruits, fresh lemon zest, white flower blossoms, piquant nuts, and a kiss of spices. This luminous white wine dwells in its opposites, complementing its delicate mouth-feel with vibrant acidity, layering its sweet fruits with savory bass notes, and building to a fresh, clean and delectable finish. This mono-varietal Pallagrello Bianco comes from organically tended parcels of clayey vineyards; grapes ferment with natural yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel, and the wine ages for six months in barrique, followed by six months in bottle before release.
I Pentri l'Amore delle Api Fiano Beneventano 2014 750ml
I Pentri l'Amore delle Api Fiano Beneventano 2014 750ml
Price: $39.99
Currently Unavailable.

Meaning “love of bees,” I Pentri’s “L’Amore delle Api” Fiano testifies to the estate’s dedication to nature; it’s a concentrated, intense and organic wine that bursts with the sunny heart of Campania. Succulent stone fruits dance with honeyed orange zest, white flower petals, crushed river rocks, and kisses of spice in this beautifully made ’14 Fiano from I Pentri. Fiano smells deceptively sweet, but this wine complements its sweet aromatics with savory herbs and minerals, unfolding on the palate with a textured, rich feel and building to a sneakily powerful finish. Deriving from the estate’s scant two acres of Fiano vines, the grapes for this wine ferment with natural yeasts, and the wine ages in large wooden barrels for a year before bottling. Only 80 cases of this Fiano make it to the Unites States.
Vestini Campagnano Casavecchia Riserva 2013 750ml
Vestini Campagnano Casavecchia Riserva 2013 750ml
Price: $44.99
Currently Unavailable.

Supple, soft, and round, the ’13 Casavecchia Riserva from Vestini bursts with juicy red and black berries, warm Christmas spices, licorice, game and smoky minerals. While Casavecchia usually makes a wine that’s reminiscent of Dolcetto or Frappato, the Riserva bottling’s extra maturation time adds layers of complexity and a satisfying weightiness. Vibrant acidity whooshes the wine across the palate as it builds to a mineral-laden and fruity crescendo; made to drink young, this wine delivers a lot of drinking pleasure. Deriving from clay soils, this mono-varietal Casavecchia Riserva ferments in stainless steel and ages in barrels (about two-thirds new) for a year before bottling.
Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Nero 2014 750ml
Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Nero 2014 750ml
Price: $48.99

Sappy and succulent cherries and blackberries explode from the glass of this ’13 Pallagrello Nero; fruit-forward yet balanced, this wine frames its ripe fruits with volcanic rocks, crushed herbs, and rose petals. This is a beautifully brooding wine that unleashes a sweet inner perfume that’s complicated by driving minerality. Chewy tannins find their complement in brisk acidity, suggesting that, as compelling as this wine is right now, it’ll be even better in a few years. Deriving from clay soils, this mono-varietal Pallagrello Nero ferments in stainless steel and ages in barrels (about two-thirds new) for a year before bottling.
Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva 2007 750ml
Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva 2007 750ml
Price: $59.99

Brambly wild berries, succulent black fruits, and juicy cherries waft with peppery spices, warm saddle leather, roasted game, incense and underbrush in this stunning ’07 Taurasi Radici Riserva. This wine oozes silkily across the palate while chewy, polished tannins cling to the cheeks; a sweet inner perfume finds its complement in savory bass notes, making for an entrancing combination. Deriving from vines averaging 30 years of age grown in the mineral-laden, volcanic soiled Montemarano vineyard, the grapes for this wine ferment in temperature-controlled stainless steel for about ten days; the wine ages in a combination of barrique (20% new) and cask for 30 months, followed by at least three years in bottle before release. While this wine is structured for aging, it’s still very accessible--Aglianico lovers won’t want to miss this must-have Mastroberardino bottle!
Raffaele Palma Salicerchi 2011 750ml
Raffaele Palma Salicerchi 2011 750ml
Price: $74.99

A blend of Piedirosso, Tintore and Aglianico, this dry, lean and almost steely rosato offers a burst of fruit, a peppering of licorice and cloves, and a long, savory finish replete with tannins; it’s a serious wine for serious wine lovers. Fresh as the Amalfi Coast whence it comes, this ’11 Salicerchi presents a structured, complex side to Italian rosés. Working with agronomist Giuseppe Coppola and enologist Vincenzo Mercurio, estate owner Raffaele Palma has come a long way in a few years, and IWM puts this Amalfi Coast winery on its short list of up-and-coming estates. Raffaele Palma’s acres shoot up from 50 meters above sea level to 450 meters above sea level, requiring that all agriculture be done by hand at this organic estate.