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The Wines of Lazio

Wines of LazioWhile this culture is presently dedicated to winning back some of its former rankings, almost inexplicably, it also possesses one of the wine world’s most compelling legacies— the wines of Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi, the prince of Venosa. Ludovisi’s wines—a Bianco, Sémillon, and Rosso—are presently under the charge of a select few—three individuals who work to place what remains (of a bequest to the late wine critic Luigi Veronelli) with a proper and highly discriminating audience. Utilizing an early form of organic viticulture and maintaining exceedingly low yields, the prince crafted mystical wines; as he destroyed the vineyards when no longer able to tend them, his story will be told only by the wines he himself crafted.
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Alberico Bianco 2014 750ml
Alberico Bianco 2014 750ml
Price: $54.99

Old-vine Semillon is special, and the ’14 Alberico Bianco showcases the revered grape and its ancient vines in a wine that matches its kinetic acidity with telltale waxy viscosity. This luscious wine frames its orchard and stone fruits with citrus zest, crushed river rocks, white wildflowers, vanilla pastry, and a kiss of toasted oak. At once vibrant and rich, this beautifully structured wine dwells in its tensions where racy acidity, cheek-piquing minerality, and a floral inner perfume unite in a satisfying symphonic finish. This mono-varietal Semillon derives from just three rows of vines aged more than fifty years; grapes ferment in cask, and the wine ages in old, neutral puncheon (70-gallon barrels) for six months, followed by two years in bottle before release. Just 560 bottles, or 43 cases, made.
Alberico Rosso 2012 750ml
Alberico Rosso 2012 750ml
Price: $88.99

Reflecting its ripe, low production year and its unique lava soils, Alberico’s ’12 Rosso lays its succulent red and blue fruits on a foundation of tarry earth, incense, grilled herbs, warm baking spices and crushed flower petals. This is a caressing wine that pulls you back to the glass with its perfume and voluptuous mouth-feel, but for all its opulence, a sturdy mineral core gives the wine an energetic kick. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, grapes ferment with naturally occurring yeasts in temperature-controlled cement vats; the wine ages for one year in botti, followed by two years in oak puncheons (70-gallon barrels that are smaller than botti) and two years in bottle before release. Just 588 bottles, or 49 cases, made.
Fiorano No. 25 Bianco 1993 750ml
Fiorano No. 25 Bianco 1993 750ml
Price: $124.00

These precious gems are the product of dedication and passion from Principe Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi (and his Fiorano Estate in Lazio), whose avant-garde approach of organic agriculture and the use of a magical mold was way ahead of its time. His '70s, '80s, and '90s whites were a phenomenon for their ability to age, but became rarities as the prince was ever elusive and refused to release his wines. After tearing up his vineyards to ensure that his legacy would not be misrepresented, Ludovisi passed his private cellar to the iconoclastic Italian food and wine critic Luigi Veronelli, entrusting him to find the appropriate individuals who could keep his vision and discovery alive. This mission continues today, as the vintage wines have been left to Sergio by the late Veronelli, presenting him with the challenge of fulfilling the original promise to the Prince. Like the bottlings from Gravner, these wines are not for everyone—they are enigmas for the enthusiast to play out. With this in mind, these wines will only be made available in an extremely allocated assorted case, in an effort to find serious palates. The two whites being offered, Bianco (Malvasia di Candia) and Semillon, range from the 1986 to 1994 vintages and are only beginning to show their great destiny. We implore the recipients of these wines to cellar a portion of their allotment up to 20 years so they may show their full grace, allowing the story and legacy of the prince to continue.

The 1993 Bianco of 100% Malvasia di Candia shows an unfiltered copper glow from the glass. The aromatics bend the spectrum, moving from earth to fruit, then with an interlude between sniffs, earth to spice. Tasting reveals layers of fruit, spice and earth all in harmony, with a balancing act of honeycomb, nuts, and spiced pears playing the lead.
Fiorano No. 26 Bianco 1992 750ml
Fiorano No. 26 Bianco 1992 750ml
Price: $124.00

A gorgeous amber in the glass, this ’92 Fiorano Bianco layers its rich stone and tropical fruits with citrus zest, crushed river rocks, butterscotch, fresh-cut herbs and honey, all conveyed in a luscious, viscous body that’s nonetheless vibrant. While this complex wine displays slight oxidation, it thrums with acidity, giving it a rare balance of maturity and freshness. This mature white wine defies what we think we know about Italian whites, offering a tremendous drinking experience for wine connoisseurs; despite three decades of maturity, this powerful, stable white opens with hours of aeration to show a kaleidoscopic palate. Fiorano Bianco, crafted from organically grown Malvasia di Candia, is an unusual, rare white that stands the test of time and offers a picture of meticulous, organic winemaking as it was practiced decades ago.
Fiorano No. 26 Bianco 1994
Fiorano No. 26 Bianco 1994 750ml
Price: $124.00

These precious gems are the product of dedication and passion from Principe Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi (and his Fiorano Estate in Lazio), whose avant-garde approach of organic agriculture and the use of a magical mold was way ahead of its time. His '70s, '80s, and '90s whites were a phenomenon for their ability to age, but became rarities as the prince was ever elusive and refused to release his wines. After tearing up his vineyards to ensure that his legacy would not be misrepresented, Ludovisi passed his private cellar to the iconoclastic Italian food and wine critic Luigi Veronelli, entrusting him to find the appropriate individuals who could keep his vision and discovery alive. This mission continues today, as the vintage wines have been left to Sergio by the late Veronelli, presenting him with the challenge of fulfilling the original promise to the Prince. Like the bottlings from Gravner, these wines are not for everyone—they are enigmas for the enthusiast to play out. With this in mind, these wines will only be made available in an extremely allocated assorted case, in an effort to find serious palates. The two whites being offered, Bianco (Malvasia di Candia) and Semillon, range from the 1986 to 1994 vintages and are only beginning to show their great destiny. We implore the recipients of these wines to cellar a portion of their allotment up to 20 years so they may show their full grace, allowing the story and legacy of the prince to continue.
Fiorano No. 32 Bianco 1993
Fiorano No. 32 Bianco 1993 750ml
Price: $124.00

Offering an intense, full bouquet spiked with white flowers, candied fruit, stone fruits, spice and earthiness, this ’93 is a concentrated, complex expression that envelops the palate with a rich texture and an indescribable palate of spiced fruits and minerals. Deep golden yellow, this ‘93 Fiorano Bianco shows youthfulness even with decades of age. Fiorano Bianco, crafted from organically grown Malvasia di Candia, offers a unique expression of its vintage, terroir, and even its aging barrel. This is an unusual, rare white that stands the test of time and offer a picture of meticulous, organic winemaking as it was practiced decades ago.
Fiorano No. 32 Bianco 1995 750ml
Fiorano No. 32 Bianco 1995 750ml
Price: $124.00

Racy and nervy, the No. 32 Bianco frames its succulent and dried orchard and stone fruits with potpourri, smoky minerals, and a “cidery” quality that’s reminiscent of Gravner’s amphora-aged amber wines. Textured and piquant, this ’95 Fiorano Bianco fills the mouth with a chewy tannin-like feel, making it a rare white that drinks very much like a red. This mature white wine defies what we think we know about Italian whites, offering a tremendous drinking experience for wine connoisseurs; despite three decades of maturity, this powerful, stable white opens with hours of aeration to show a kaleidoscopic palate. Fiorano Bianco, crafted from organically grown Malvasia di Candia, is an unusual, rare white that stands the test of time and offers a picture of meticulous, organic winemaking as it was practiced decades ago.
Fiorano No. 44 Bianco 1994
Fiorano No. 44 Bianco 1994 750ml
Price: $124.00

These precious gems are the product of dedication and passion from Principe Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi (and his Fiorano Estate in Lazio), whose avant-garde approach of organic agriculture and the use of a magical mold was way ahead of its time. His '70s, '80s, and '90s whites were a phenomenon for their ability to age, but became rarities as the prince was ever elusive and refused to release his wines. After tearing up his vineyards to ensure that his legacy would not be misrepresented, Ludovisi passed his private cellar to the iconoclastic Italian food and wine critic Luigi Veronelli, entrusting him to find the appropriate individuals who could keep his vision and discovery alive. This mission continues today, as the vintage wines have been left to Sergio by the late Veronelli, presenting him with the challenge of fulfilling the original promise to the Prince. Like the bottlings from Gravner, these wines are not for everyone—they are enigmas for the enthusiast to play out. With this in mind, these wines will only be made available in an extremely allocated assorted case, in an effort to find serious palates. The two whites being offered, Bianco (Malvasia di Candia) and Semillon, range from the 1986 to 1994 vintages and are only beginning to show their great destiny. We implore the recipients of these wines to cellar a portion of their allotment up to 20 years so they may show their full grace, allowing the story and legacy of the prince to continue.
Fiorano No. 45 Bianco 1995 750ml
Fiorano No. 45 Bianco 1995 750ml
Price: $124.00

Deep bright golden yellow, this Fiorano Bianco shows youthfulness even with decades of age. Offering an intense, full bouquet spiked with white flowers, candied fruit, stewed and fresh stone fruits, spice and earthiness, this ’95 Bianco is concentrated and complex. It envelops the mouth with a rich texture and an indescribable palate of spiced fruits and minerals. Fiorano Bianco, crafted from organically grown Malvasia di Candia, offers a unique expression of its vintage and its individual aging barrel; this is a rare, unusual white that stands the test of time and offers a picture of meticulous, organic winemaking as it was practiced decades ago.
Fiorano No. 47 Bianco 1992 750ml
Fiorano No. 47 Bianco 1992 750ml
Price: $124.00

A deep golden yellow, this ’92 Bianco bursts with aromas of white flowers, candied fruit, pear, spice and earthiness. On the palate, the flavors of spiced apples, pears and minerals are concentrated and complex, and the wine caresses the mouth with a rich texture, building to a long, balanced and harmonious finish. This mature white wine defies what we think we know about Italian whites, offering a tremendous drinking experience for wine connoisseurs; despite nearly three decades of maturity, this powerful, stable white opens with hours of aeration to show a kaleidoscopic palate. Fiorano Bianco, crafted from organically grown Malvasia di Candia, is an unusual, rare white that stands the test of time and offers a picture of meticulous, organic winemaking as it was practiced decades ago.