Angelo Gaja stands as one of the most transformative figures in the history of Barbaresco and Barolo—arguably the most influential Italian winemaker of the last half-century. Beginning in the 1960s and accelerating through the 1970s and 1980s, he championed meticulous vineyard work, drastically lowered yields, modernized cellar practices, and, crucially, insisted that Langhe wines could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the greatest wines of France. His commitment to beauty and precision elevated not just his own estate, but the global perception of Piedmont as a whole. Collectors now regard his wines as among the most sought-after and age-worthy in Italy, and his continued leadership keeps the region in the international spotlight.
Within Gaja’s range, the two single-vineyard crus—Sorì Tildìn and Sorì San Lorenzo—sit at the summit of his reputation. Introduced in the 1970s, each bottling showcased a new level of finesse, depth, and longevity from Nebbiolo, proving that the variety—when grown in perfectly tended slopes and vinified with exacting care—could reach heights previously unimagined. These wines became benchmarks, lightning rods for attention, and essential references for critics seeking to understand the potential of Barbaresco. Their combination of polish, aromatic lift, and architectural structure offered a blueprint of what “greatness” could look like in the Langhe.
Because of this, Sorì Tildìn and Sorì San Lorenzo effectively became the “leading horses” pulling the entire region forward. Other producers—whether traditionalists or modernists—found themselves compelled to raise their game: invest in their vineyards, refine canopy management, harvest with greater precision, and elevate cellar hygiene and technique. When Gaja showed what was possible, the bar rose for everyone. The result is a richer, more diverse, and far more ambitious Piedmont, where dozens of estates now craft world-class wines capable of aging for decades—all in part because these two crus set the pace, defined the ambition, and challenged the region to match their excellence.
The 2022 Sorì Tildìn is a powerful, complex, and deeply expressive Barbaresco that reflects both the heat of the vintage and the precision of Gaja’s vineyard work. In 2022 the hilltop exposure and meticulous canopy management gave a wine of remarkable concentration without sacrificing lift. Critics describe it as a broader-shouldered, more intense expression of Nebbiolo, darker and more muscular than Costa Russi, yet still unmistakably refined. The aromatics open with leather, porcini, and cedar, then unfold into wild raspberry, plum, mint, dried flowers, anise, and white pepper, all carried by a ferrous, mineral backbone. On the palate it is full-bodied and layered, with gripping but polished tannins and vivid, pure fruit. The structure drives the wine toward a long, resonant finish where spice, mineral tension, and red-dark fruit linger. This is a wine built for aging, likely to begin showing its best after 2028 and to develop beautifully for decades.
Special 3 Bottle case Price $2999 owc
Special Bottle Price $1099
The 2022 Sorì San Lorenzo presents a different personality—more vertical, taut, and finely etched, considered by many to be one of the most “serious” and ageworthy of all the Gaja crus in this vintage. Even in the warm 2022 conditions, the vineyard’s natural tension preserved a bright, high-toned profile of red berries, rose petals, pressed flowers, and mineral notes that recall chalk and black salt. The bouquet is elegant but tightly wound, with hints of clove and delicate spice. The palate is firm, dense, and structured, showing deep, velvety tannins balanced by energetic acidity. There is an almost architectural sense of precision here: a wine that feels coiled, powerful, and destined to unfurl slowly over many years. Its finish is long, polished, and persistent, emphasizing both finesse and backbone. Given its tautness and structure, Sorì San Lorenzo will require patience, with optimal drinking expected to begin around 2029 and stretch well into mid-century.
Special 3 Bottle OWC case Price $2999
Special Bottle Price $1099
Side by side, the two crus capture the dual soul of Gaja’s Barbaresco. Sorì Tildìn expresses breadth, richness, and layered depth, while Sorì San Lorenzo emphasizes tension, verticality, and finely detailed aromatics. Both are monumental in 2022—distinct in personality, but united by craftsmanship, clarity, and the precision that has made them benchmarks of modern Barbaresco.
Wines will be deliverable in January |
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