This '86 Bianco gleams with an unfiltered copper glow, and the nose bends the spectrum, moving from earth to fruit, then with an interlude between sniffs, earth to spice. Tasting reveals layers of fruit, spice and earth all in harmony, with a balancing act of honeycomb, nuts, and spiced pears playing the lead. This mature white wine defies what we think we know about Italian whites, offering a tremendous drinking experience for wine connoisseurs; despite three decades of maturity, this powerful wine opens with hours of aeration to show a kaleidoscopic palate. Fiorano Bianco, crafted from organically grown Malvasia di Candia, is an unusual, rare white that stands the test of time and offers a picture of meticulous, organic winemaking as it was practiced decades ago.
Located in the region of Latium in Lazio, Fiorano is the wine estate of Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi, the prince of Venosa. To have sampled the wines of the Fiorano estate would put you in the elite few, for these nearly impossible-to-get wines are the product of a dedicated and passionate prince whose avant-garde approach was way ahead of its time. His whites started a phenomenon for their ability to age, but they became a true rarity, for the prince was elusive and highly discriminating about selling his wines. After tearing up his vineyards to ensure his unadulterated legacy, Boncompagni Ludovisi passed his private cellar to the iconoclastic Italian wine critic Luigi Veronelli, who left a portion to IWM's Sergio Esposito. Like the bottlings from Josko Gravner, these wines are not for everyone--they are enigmas for the enthusiast to play out. Today, Alessia Antinori, daughter of Marchese Piero Antinori, has assumed control of her forbearer's vineyard and is returning it to its forme
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