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Greatest Wine We Have Tasted from Sicily? 130 Year Old Vines and Volcanic Soils Deliver "WOW" Factor

NEW ARRIVALS: 500,000 Years of Volcanic Eruptions, 100+ Year Old Vines, and Ancient Varietals Deliver the Contrada or Grand Cru Vineyards of Sicily! Discover These Organic Wines of Burgundian and Barolo Character.

 

“The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia (Tenuta delle Terre Nerre) continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna.”  - Antonio Galloni, Vinous

 

“Cool San Lorenzo is at the northwestern edge of the Etna DOC at around 800 metres...Due to its uniqueness, Terre Nere have dubbed their San Lorenzo bottling (from 70- to 100-year-old vines) as ‘Grande Terroir Ellittico’ and consider it one of their grand crus.- Decanter

 

It is difficult not to be attracted to Italy’s wealth of antique varietals that are capable of transporting enthusiasts to Italy with one stunning sip that begins under $30 a bottle. It is not surprising that the ancient Greeks called Italy Oenotria, “land of vines.” One such vine or grape that would have appealed to them is certainly Sicily’s Nerello Mascalese from the high altitudes and volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. If you follow Italian wines, you probably have heard comparisons of this grape to red Burgundy and a young Barolo. There is some truth to this “Burgundy of the Mediterranean” statement, as many of the expressions are high-toned with inviting red fruit, mineral and herbaceous undertones with firm tannins and bracing acidity.  

 

Well, there’s a new sheriff in town – Angelo GAJA has joined forces with Alberto Graci and more eyeballs than ever are turning on the terroir-driven wines of Mount Etna. However, there are many other producers in the region to explore first, from IWM’s old standby of Palari to the natural selections from Cornelissen to the more extroverted wines of Vini Franchetti (Passopisciaro). Today, we are turning the spotlight to one of the region’s most respected winemakers, Tenuta delle Terre. This is one of “Etna’s reference points,” for Sicily’s noble Nerello Mascalese.

 

The pioneering estate led by Marc de Grazia and winemaker Calogero Statell now have a better understanding of the rugged terrain with the Island’s old gnarly vines from these obscene elevations, impenetrable rock, and volcanic soils. The IWM Team tasted the prized cru wines a few months back and they are all stunning – 2021 is an excellent vintage at Terre Nere – unfortunately yields are down more than 30%. We feel the Feudo di Mezzo and Santo Spirito are great introductions to the Premier Cru wines of this estate. As for the Santo Spirito, a mere 700 cases are produced from 60-100 year old vines volcanic ash soils at 700-850 meters altitude. It makes for a compelling expression of Nerello Mascalese and gets us excited about Southern Italy in one sip.

 

That being said, we believe the 2021 San Lorenzo, 2021 Calderara Sottana, and especially the 2021 Prephylloxera Vigneto Don Peppino represent the finest expressions of Nerello Mascalese. In fact, that Don Peppino might just be the best Sicilian wine we have tasted in 20 years. We had the wine over 48 hours – one minute it showcases its Barolo side of the prized Sicilian varietal, and then another moment it showcases a Burgundian side. Absolutely one of the monumental wines we have tasted this year, there is just a lot going on in this bottle and all the crus of this celebrated estate. Unfortunately, allocations are limited and the wines are now scoffed up by many of the world's top restaurants.

 

FINAL ALLOCATION: The Prized Grand Cru Like Vineyards of Terre Nere

As mentioned we are including rare bottlings from the Contrada or Grand Cru Vineyards of Sicily and Terre Nere. Each high-altitude vineyard of old vines expresses their own unique character. For the collector, this includes the elusive Terre Nere Prephylloxera Vigneto Don Peppino produced from 100% old vine Nerello Mascalese from the crus of Calderara and Santo Spirito that date back to 1870. Just 250 cases are produced with little arriving in the US. However, for IWM, if you really want to fall in love with Sicily’s indigenous and noble Nerello Mascalese, we recommend the industry and staff favorites of Terre Nere Etna Rosso Santo Spirito and Feudo di Mezzo. The latter is a wine of more approachability produced from Terre Nere’s vineyards at 650 meters altitude and will easily satisfy those that appreciate the structure of premier cru Burgundy with Italy’s earthy and red fruit driven profiles. Grab these today, as these wines are extremely limited and allocated!

 

ADDITIONAL NOTES AND REVIEWS: 

 

“Marco de Grazia-s influence on the wines of Etna looms as large as the massive volcano that dominates the landscape in this very special corner of Sicily. This bi-cultural Italian and American figure (with extensive influence in the wine world as an importer, producer and great connoisseur of Barolo and Barbaresco) has pretty much moved permanently to live on Etna. His daughter is enrolled in the local school and his winery is a happy meeting ground for many younger Etna winemakers who seek Marco-s advice and counsel. I have often observed how the newest generations of winemakers - the so-called -Etna Boys- refer to Marco in paternal tones.” –Monica Larner, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

2021 TERRE NERE ETNA ROSSO SANTO SPIRITO

Christopher Deas, Italian Wine Merchants: “What a treat to taste this line up of wines, and no doubt about it, for the collector, the Grand Cru-like expressions of Calderara Sottana, and especially the Prephylloxera Vigneto Don Peppino represent the finest expressions of Nereollo Mascalese we have tasted from this estate, and for the region as a whole. However, for IMW, the perfect introduction to the single vineyard expressions of Terre Nere begins with the Santo Spirito and San Lorenzo. The wine screams Italy from the glass with aromatics of red fruit, punch, minerality and eucalyptus. On the palate it is a generous mouthful dripping with candied red fruit, strawberries, dried cherries, red licorice, and black cherry rind, cinnamon, sandal wood, closing with a dry and firm tannic finish. It is here that you really experience the influence of the volcanic soil and ash with additional notes of charcoal, smoke and tar that marry with herbaceous nuances for a long finish. We found, once the wine opened, that the Santo Spirito offered the most richness and texture in the line up. This is Nerello Mascalese (100%) that will transport you to Southern Italy begging for pizza with fatty pork and fennel sausage - these wines demand food with the structure and acidity here. It is an explosive wine with more grip in 2021, but with more juicy texture – in fact, the texture alone is worth the price of admission on this overachieving value red. Serve at cellar temperature or slightly chilled."

 

Marc de Grazia, Tenuta delle Terre Nere: Terre Nere holds 11ha of the Santo Spirito cru, comprised of 60 to 100 year old gobelet-trained vines at 700-850 meters on the northern slope of Mt. Etna. The soil here is deep and volcanic, almost exclusively ash. Santo Spirito wines are sensual and succulent, always seductive, with an almost fleshy bouquet and a rich and enveloping palate. But always pure and balanced. Very refined, yes, but also delicate. At the same time generous and vulnerable."

2021 TERRE NERE ETNA ROSSO SAN LORENZO

The Etna Rosso San Lorenzo is from 4 hectares of vineyards in the same named district in the town of Randazzo. The vines are more than 70 years old and the altitude is 750 meters above sea level, the soil is almost pure volcanic sand. The terroir in contrada San Lorenzo is originated by lava flows and volcanoclastic deposits related to the explosive activity of the the Ellittico eruptive center, which dates back from 60,000 to 15,000 years ago.

 

Decanter“Cool San Lorenzo is at the northwestern edge of the Etna DOC at around 800 metres, situated on some of the oldest surface soils on Etna – from the Elliptical volcano activity of 15,000 to 60,000 years ago – rich in ash and black pumice. Due to its uniqueness, Terre Nere have dubbed their San Lorenzo bottling (from 70- to 100-year-old vines) as ‘Grande Terroir Ellittico’ and consider it one of their grand crus. Fresh, floral and fragrant, it offers wafts of violet and lavender, cocoa, earth and black cherry. In the mouth its fine web of tannins and razor-sharp acidity provide tension for the ripe, balsamic hedgerow fruits to bounce off. Succulent and sapid with a very stony mid-palate, it displays excellent balance and depth, with incredible freshness and staying power.”

 

Eric Guido, Vinous: "The 2021 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo seduces with its perfumed blend of roses, sour cherries, tangerine and a cinnamon dusting. This is pure elegance, lifted and refined, with dazzling acidity and a wave of pure mineral-tinged fruits that crackle and pop across the palate. It’s complex yet truly delicious and maintains marvelous energy, even as a web of fine-grained tannins reminds the taster of its youthful state. Even today, the 2021 San Lorenzo is dreamy and a total pleasure. That said, the future remains very bright."

 

2020 TERRE NERE ETNA ROSSO SAN LORENZO

Monica Larner, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "Only four vintners farm in San Lorenzo, including Giuseppe Russo of Girolamo Russo and Marc De Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere. The 2020 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo shows lots of bright, lifted fruit with cherry and redcurrant at the top. The fruit is discreet, however, and is nicely wrapped into the wine's elegantly rich texture. San Lorenzo is special because this site, at 700 to 800 meters in elevation, is usually cooler. It has rich soils with rocks and sand. The violent 1981 eruption grazed the perimeter of this location. You get a wine of volume and depth as a result."

2021 TERRE NERE ETNA ROSSO CALDERARA SOTTANA

The Calderara Cru is composed of two vineyards, totaling roughly 15ha, at an altitude of 650-700m. A small portion of Calderara is pre-phylloxera, the rest is 40-50 years old. The soil is extremely rocky volcanic ash overrun by black pumice and solid volcanic rock. Alcoholic fermentation and maceration lasts 10 to 15 days; malolactic fermentation and maturation are carried out in oak. After 18 months the wine is bottled without filtering.

 

Marc de Grazia, Tenuta delle Terre Nere: "The terroir of the Contrada Calderara was originated from lava flows and volcano-clastic deposits related to the effusive and explosive activity of the Elliptic volcano, approximately between 60,000 and 15,000 years ago. Although very young in geological terms, the Elliptic soil is the oldest surface layer where it is possible to plant in the appellation. The reason is simple: millennia of lava flows have buried the oldest soils, leaving, in fact, only small and rare portions of the soil of the Elliptic. On the north side of Etna there are five or six Contradas that have “elliptical terroir”. Three of them, however, are spurious, as the igneous nature of the Elliptic is mixed with alluvial soils of a sedimentary nature due to the overflow of the Alcantara river. On the north side of Etna only three Contradas are “pure” elliptical terroir: Bocca d’Orzo, Calderara and San Lorenzo.The altitude varies from 600 to 700 meters. The harvest takes place in the second ten days of October. Locally Calderara and its wines enjoy an extraordinary reputation. Our Calderara Sottana is the result of very old vineyards, from 60 to 100 years of age. Of all our crus it is perhaps the most complete: just as a wide-angle lens includes the widest panorama, so our Calderara seems to contain and exhibit the widest spectrum of flavors, aromas and nuances. Distinctly autumnal, spicy, it is aromatic and austere at the same time. It gives a wonderful sensation of fullness on the palate, but ineffably light."

 

2020 TERRE NERE ETNA ROSSO CALDERARA SOTTANA

Monica Larner, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2020 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana has a savory, almost autumnal personality with tobacco, wet moss, spice and dark fruit. It stands apart from the other wines in the portfolio thanks to those darker fruit qualities. Marc De Grazia uses the unusual word "feline" to describe a mouthfeel that is long and sleek. I notice the dry, silky nature of the elegant tannins.”

2021 TERRE NERE ETNA PREPHYLLOXERA VIGNA DI DON PEPPINO

In front of the cellar at Terre Nere within the Calderara Sottana vineyards are two parcels that have survived phylloxera. They are over 130 years old and are planted in their original rootstock. In 2006, Marco decided to vinify these parcels separately. Yields are a ridiculously low 4-5 tons per hectare, with a total production of just 500 six-packs. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation and aging in French oak barriques and tonneaux. The wine is bottled after 18 months of oak aging.

 

Christopher Deas, Italian Wine Merchants: "WOW...what at wine! Nerello Mascalese from the 1880s on the prized slopes of Mount Edna. The 2021 Calderara Sottana, and especially the 2021 Prephylloxera Vigneto Don Peppino represent the finest expressions of Nerello Mascalese – in fact, this Don Peppino might just be the best Sicilian we have tasted to date. We had the wine over 48 hours – one minute it showcases its Barolo side of the prized Sicilian varietal, and then another moment it showcases a more elegant Burgundian side. With aeration, what stands out here, is how well the tannins were integrated with the generous red fruit. The formidable tannins are there, but do not get in the way, some years the austerity can be intimidating. Explosive red fruit, strawberries, cherries, spice, tar, cigar wrapper, smoke, and minerality. Absolutely one of the monumental wines we have tasted this year, just a lot going on in this bottle and all the crus of this celebrated estate. The Calderara Sottana and the Prephylloxera Vigneto Don Peppino captures a more elegant side here with more persistence and depth and are out MUST-BUY picks for the collector."

 

Decanter: "From two parcels of pre-phylloxera vines (over 140 years old) within the estate's rocky four-hectare vineyard in Calderara Sottana, this wine was first bottled in the 2006 vintage after Marco De Grazia decided to vinify these ancient, ungrafted vines separately. Dusty and spicy with just a hint of orange peel overlaying some deep, dark berry scents, in the mouth it has a beautiful expression of sweet, concentrated balsam-laced red and black fruits showing levity and balance on a soft palate. There's floral depth to find here, given focus by the bright acidity, while the fine tannins cradle the succulent, joyous fruit. Persistent and vibrant."

 

This is an email ONLY offer! If you would like to take advantage of this offer that is only available until 11:59pm, Friday, April 12th. We are asking that you email orders back to me at chris.deas@italianwinemerchants.com, connect with your portfolio manager or mention receipt of this offer if calling the store. All orders are subject to confirmation. IWM is not responsible for typographical errors.

 

All my best,

Chris

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